Friday, June 22, 2007
Lazy blogging
Before I get into this blog, let me take the lazy way out and just cross post all the articles that I've written, that have been published before I start with new thoughts.
Wednesday, June 20, 2007
The Real Brunei Beauty
The Real Brunei Beauty
Katrina A. Holigores treks deep in to the Brunei forest and gets high (literally)
Photographs by Katrina A. Holigores
I’ve always loved the great outdoors and have never balked at the idea of doing things just for adventure. Whitewater rafting, cliff climbing, snow and water sports are already happily crossed out from my “things to do before you die” list. Trekking in the wild outdoors, though, is something that never leaves my list and I indulge in it as often as possible. I don’t think anything can beat a good old nature hike, basking in the benevolent shade of age-old trees and filling your lungs with the freshest air. It was a bit surprising for me to learn on my recent trip to Brunei that they actually had a national park where one could swim, hike and be one with wild animals (and possibly wild people). The two-hour flight from Manila to Brunei was made rather pleasant by the excellent service of Royal Brunei Airlines; although I must say that flying will never really hold any charms for me. I ordered my low-salt meal and fell asleep in my chair that seemed to recline to the level of a nice cushy bed. Ah…
The city of Brunei itself was clean, and not very densely populated. The hotel, a “six-star,” sprawling structure by the name of The Empire, was lavish and an astounding sight for its sheer size and the decoration (gold and semi-precious stones) which adorned the lobby and some of the more exclusive suites. Even with all the pampering that one can expect from a hotel of this caliber, I was looking forward to venture outside my massive 100-square meter room and see what Brunei was all about. The tour guide spoke about the Ulu Temburong National Park, a lush and green area measuring around 50,000 hectares. Only 100 of it though, are designated as park grounds. Located on the Borneo island, Brunei still has about 70% virgin forest left—pretty astounding, considering all the (ahem) progress that has been going on in the rest of the world…
Wait—Borneo? Isn’t that where you find headhunters, cannibals, and savages? (Nope, that’s Congress.) Anyway, our group had the assurance of our savvy travel agent and Brunei regular, Vernon Prieto, that he had been to the National Park several times and had returned uneaten (although his head did look a little small…) Joking aside, we were promised a marvelous journey into the best that nature had to offer, plus a healthy way to burn the all-you-can-eat buffet we exploited at our hotel. The highlight of Temburong was the canopy walkway that rises up about 50 meters from the ground. It doesn’t sound too impressive in terms of height, but the thing was, just to get to the “ground” we had to climb about 1500 steps up a mountain. Of course, these are things I only found out once we arrived at the park.
We took a jetty from Brunei to the capital of Temburong, Bangsar town, then took a 30-minute bus ride to the Batang Duri Jetty, then were transported right via a temuai, similar to a bangka without the katigs on the side. This ride up the Temburong River took us across many rapids and the breeze coming in from all sides as we passed through an endless amount of trees was absolutely refreshing. If I wasn’t trying to desperately spot wild animals I probably would have fallen asleep. The indigenous people of Temburong, called Iban, manned the boats, and with great skill I must add. The water level can sometimes be quite low, so they have to maneuver the temuai over sand bars, rocks and even fallen logs.
On the river ride, I was fortunate enough to spot a couple of egrets. For those who are more sharp-eyed (and patient) than I, it is said that small reptiles are also plentiful here: the green Wagler’s Pit Viper, flying lizards and even geckos. Our guide happily reported that if we went into darker parts of the jungle, we would be able to spot some alligators. (Or was it crocodiles?) Whatever, we weren’t particularly interested—more out of fear, and not an adversity to reptiles. At the headquarters, we were informed guests could also choose to do a two-day tour of the rainforest which would give them more opportunities to not only see the animals mentioned above, but all types of insects, amphibians, birds, mammals and botanical wonders. Upon hearing this, I kind of regretted that we only had one day to stay. I have no fear of wild, exotic animals for as long as I have a highly skilled, sensitive guide who will die for me in case I am attacked (and I’m only half joking).
So up the mountain we went. It wasn’t a terribly steep climb and by the halfway point (around 600+ steps) I could already feel my breakfast and the overindulgent dinner slowly melt away. I was also melting from the heat, but because of the shade of the trees, I wasn’t feeling drained or even feel like stopping for a rest. Nature is really invigorating, especially if you allow yourself to be inspired by it. The trees were majestic, the chirping of birds and insects make me feel like a female Tarzan.
My other companions scaled the steps at his or her pace. That way, nobody felt that they were in an Ironman Triathlon. At 45 meters up, we were allowed an undeniably spectacular birds-eye view of the park. The bridge itself was a bit shaky, but no way, at any point, did I feel like I was in any danger. I think a couple more meters up and I could have touched the clouds. Talk about having an (aluminum) palace in the sky.
Going down was of course, much easier than going up. Before we returned to Bangsar to take the jetty back to Brunei City, the group made a cultural side trip—a visit to a traditional Iban longhouse. A long house is er, long, as it is an elevated abode split up into about 10-15 sections to accommodate 10 to15 Iban families! It’s communal living at its most comfortable. Some tribes choose to have very simple living arrangements, with a common room for the elders and the children to run around and play in, while some opt for more modern fittings built out of concrete instead of wood. There is a “head” family of the household and I guess this kind of authority and leadership prevents it from turning into a Melrose Place on stilts.
The feeling I got overall from my short stay in Brunei and its surroundings was one of peace. The people lived in relative harmony, and the differences in religions and backgrounds seemed to make no difference. My experience of the highs (literally) and longs (literally as well) of Brunei was definitely one for my books. Who knows, maybe next time around, I will get to see even more wildlife. The proboscis monkey is found only in Brunei and famed for its, uh, special salute. (Yes, the name is a clue.) Jempat Lagi!, say the Bruneians. I’ll take that as a standing invitation.
Your Itinerary
How To Get There: Royal Brunei Airlines flies six times a week from Manila to Bandar Seri Bagawan, the Brunei capital. For reservations or bookings, contact the Royal Brunei general sales agent at phone (2) 897 3309 and (2) 895 3545, e-mail
Where To Stay: The Empire Hotel And Country Club is an award-winning, breathtaking palatial resort fit for a sultan (or king). Opened in 2000, The Empire has won numerous awards as one of Asia’s best resorts, notably winning the World’s Leading Presidential Suite from the World Travel Awards two years running (2003, 2004). Visit
Tuesday, June 19, 2007
Tam-Awan Village, Baguio
Published in What's On and Expat Newspaper
Tam-Awan Village,Baguio: Garden in the Sky
By Katrina A. Holigores
Known to many as the summer capital of the Philippines, Baguio city is also a treasure chest of fond childhood memories for me and members of my family. From going round (literally) in circles on the locally bred horses at Wright Park, to the first bite of salty grilled corn in Mines View, a trip to Baguio holds a promise of great weather, blue skies and lots of activities. The city which is located in the province of Ilocos Norte (about 5-6 hours by car from Manila and one hour by plane) was developed originally as an R&R location for the American soldiers.
Nowadays visitors come to Baguio to enjoy cooler climates, see the offerings in terms of shopping on very busy Session Road, experience alternative dining atmospheres such as Oh My Gulay in Vocas and Café by the Ruins as well as the local art scene that Baguio has long been known for. National Artist Ben Cabrera has called Baguio his home for many years and a visit to his house is an unforgettable experience due to the beautifully sunlit area he uses as a studio that is filled from end to end with his paintings and personal collection of bulols ( rice gods).
A recent trip to the north got me curious about a place that was part of the brainchild of Ben Cabrera and Chit Asignation called Tam-awan Village of “Garden in the Sky”. Ben Cabrera otherwise known as Bencab is no longer active with the community but Chit Asignation remains passionate about this makeshift Ifugao village in the area of Pinsao which now serves as an artist community and a tourist must see. My longtime friend, the very enthusiastic and engaging Nina Poblador offered to be my guide into Tam-awan one bright and rather chilly day.
For those who have had the fortune of eating at the badly missed Kusina Salud, Nina and husband/ chef Paul were the proprietors of this quirky haven which hosted visitors both local and international with mouthwatering food and drink during their Baguio jaunts. After Nina and I paid a visit to Bencab we set off to walk down the road to Tam-awan which was semi pleasant due to the weather and not so due to the amount of vehicles that passed us on the way there.
Perhaps one day there will be efforts to rid the city of smoke belching modes of transport. When the entire city of Baguio was still adequate grazing land for cattle, the area where Tam-awan village is now located had a spring which served as a major water source. Thus, the place became associated with chanum, which in Ibaloi, means water.
Adopting the name to symbolize its vision, Chanum Foundation, Inc. took on the role of being as nurturing and life-giving as the spring in Tam-awan Village. Chit Asignation, who now serves as the Vice President for the Chanum Foundation was present to greet Nina and I as we ascended the steps of Tam-awan. There were already many tourists (Korean and European) who were waiting patiently for a performance from the Tam-awan dancers, all dressed in indigenous garb. To while the time away, some were having their portraits done by several artists who have made Tam-awan their second home.
Chit explained to me that The Chanum Foundation, which was founded in 1996, began to reconstruct Ifugao houses in Baguio with the view of making a village model accessible to people who have not had the chance to travel to the Cordilleras. They started out with three knocked-down huts which were transported from Bangaan, Ifugao. Currently guests of Tam-awan can see seven Ifugao huts and two Kalinga houses. The huts are still made out of original materials although they had to add new cogon roofs. With the aid of traditional artisans the huts were reconstructed and eventually laid out to best resemble the design of a traditional Cordillera Village.
Before the performance started I got a chance to look inside the colorful interiors of the Gallery Café. One can purchase artwork from the artists belonging to the community as well as have something to eat and drink. There was also an ongoing art exhibit in another gallery (with no café) and I was given the schedule for 2007, it seems in their sincere support for the local art scene Tam-awan has become the home for both the artists and a perfect venue for them to display their works year round. I heard Chit announcing that the performance was about to start so I found a little niche between the stone floors and proceeded to take photos of the dancers, getting lost in their music and amazed at the amount of strength and control it took to do some of the moves in the “ritual courtship dance” which was the first act.
After the performance guests were served boiled kamote ( sweet potato) and invited to feast on local fare such as native chicken in broth or pinikpikan (the chicken, upon research is not killed in the most humane of manners but is integral to the taste of the dish) with rice and local vegetables. I do not eat fowl if I can help it but I did help myself to some of the warm broth and rice and must admit it was very tasty. After the carb loading I was off to climb up the rest of Tam-awan village to take a look at the huts and the view. On a clear day one can see a breathtaking sunset and part of the South China Sea.
While trying my best to frame an entire Ifugao hut into a photo I was told that there are some differences between an Ifugao and a Kalinga Hut. As architecture has never been easy for me to understand, I read the definition from the well-written Tam-awan website. “An Ifugao house is compact and though deceptively simple, its architecture is quite sophisticated. Built by clever mortisans without nails or hardware, it exemplifies the exactness of Ifugao construction and uses heavy hand-hewn timber. Elevated to about shoulder height by four posts usually made of hard wood, the house, with periodic re-roofing, can last several generations.
The Kalinga house is a more spacious commode and is made with the same hand-hewn pinewood. The binayon is the traditional octagonal house of Southern Kalinga Province and Tam-awan.” Guests may also choose to stay the night (or two) in one of these huts and there are also workshops that they may participate in during their stay. As I crossed the hanging bridge and started to make my way out of Tam-awan, I thanked Chit and Nina for a very enriching albeit brief look into another side of Baguio. This, I felt, brought me closer to what existed before the horseback riding and the grilled corn, and I am forever grateful for an added opportunity for me to build new memories of what I can also be called the Summer Art Capital of the Philippines.
What to do at Tam-awan
FEATURES AND ACTIVITIES • Accommodations in authentic Ifugao huts • Venue for conferences, seminars & workshops • Dap-ay (stone-paved gathering place) • Art Gallery and Crafts Shop • Coffee shop • Fishpond • Indigenous flora and fauna • Eco-tours • Sunset-viewing • Martial Arts demonstrations • Art Work shops • Livelihood and crafts demonstrations on: - Paper making - Printmaking - Basket weaving - Bamboo craft - Rice wine making - Solar drawing - Drawing and painting • Interaction with Baguio and Cordillera artists • Cultural shows WORKSHOPS · PAPERMAKING · PRINTMAKING · TEXTILE ART · SOLAR DRAWING · BASIC / ADVANCE DRAWING · Others: - Oil Pastel - Printmaking with collograph - Monoprints - Rubber cuts - Other workshops as per request/s would depend on the availability of artist Rates Lodging 1 PERSON Php 500.00 2 PERSONS Php 900.00 3 PERSONS Php 1,100.00 For an EXTRA PERSON add Php 200 each GROUP (10 PAX OR MORE) Php 250 each For meals, reservations must be made in advance. Tam-awan Villa ge is located in Pinsao Proper 2600 Baguio City For more information call (074) 446-2949 go to: www.tamawanvillage.com
Saturday, June 16, 2007
Nurture Spa-Tagaytay
Published in Lifestyle Asia
A Nurturing Experience
Spa and nature lovers alike will enjoy the very unique and ecologically friendly atmosphere that surrounds Nurture Spa in Barrio Maitim, Tagaytay. The brain child of Cathy Brillantes-Palma, this secluded hideaway offers couples, singles and even families the chance to escape the madness of Manila and find a couple of hours (even days) of relaxation, overall wellness and mouth watering Asian Fusion cuisine. The trip from Manila will only take you about 1 1.2 hours to 2 hours at the most, with many signs with the Nurture Spa logo along the way to guide you to your destination. As you drive past the coffee orchards and the pineapple plantations on your way to the spa, the memories of the city are left far, far behind. The minute you alight from you car you already feel the cool, Tagaytay weather and take in the lush, tropical garden that is the backdrop for this spa. After a quick orientation, the staff takes your blood pressure and explains what’s on your agenda for the day. A tour of the grounds and directions are given to the location of various treatment rooms and the café before one is brought to their accommodations. Authentic Ifugao huts, some of which are more than a 100 years old are all naturally ventilated and can comfortably fit two, because they are elevated they capture the incoming Tagaytay breezes and are relatively cool. There are also the Serenity cottages, which are air conditioned, and have bathtubs and two massage tables on the first floor. This is a good option for guests who would rather have some privacy and the option of not having to leave right after their massage is done.
Among the treatments, Nurture Spa pampers from head to toe. For a persons “Crowning Glory” there is the Coco Aloe Royal Hair Spa and the Lavender Hair Rejuvenation. Both treatments promise maximum moisture and hydration for the hair, the former using jasmine oil while the latter lavender and tea tree essential oils. There are many options for facials, although men can opt for the Makisig Gentlemen’s Facial since this is more suitable to their skin. A spa favorite is the Sutlang Camia facial which thoroughly cleanses, softens and whitens the skin. All facials come with a light massage on the head, neck, arms and shoulders to further induce relaxation.
For full body treatments, there are again a number of massages, scrubs and wraps that are available. The Ginhawa Body Massage is 90 mins. Of pure bliss which helps balance out the nervous and emotional systems through combined aroma therapy oils. For couples, there is Magsing-Irog Massage that uses the seductive blend of ylang ylang, sandalwood and lavender oils. A unique scrub offered is the Four Blend Kape Barako scrub wherein finely ground coffee beans from Batangas are blended with special herbs. This combination is not only fragrant it also assists the skin and body by stimulating circulation. A must try for the wrap is the Hilom Dead Sea Mud Wrap, the minerals that exist in Dead Sea Mud are miracle workers in fighting acne, eczema and have been known to ease muscular and rheumatic pain. All body treatments are inclusive of a floral foot bath and finished off with the offering of herbal tea and a fresh fruit in system.
As mentioned previously, Nurture Spa pampers from head to toe, so guests can also benefit from hand and foot spas. These are done outside in beautiful wooden gazebo like structures. If one chooses for the ultimate pampering, the Bighani Luhur which lasts for 180 mins is the best alternative. It starts off with a fresh herbal scrub which exfoliates the skin, a full body massage to loosen the muscles and then a yoghurt wrap to nourish the skin. After the treatment is done, a warm floral soak completes the experience.
While the treatments are meant to pamper the external aspect of the body, the spa also takes into consideration the internal workings of its guests. The café offers delicious gastronomical delights that will satisfy any palette, be it a meat lover or a full-on vegetarian. The café gives a choice between the Spa Cuisine Meal with healthy low fat dishes such as Fettucini with Tofu and Nurture Tomato Sauce, or the Full Set Meal that has pasta and other main course selections ranging from Lamb Chops Madagascar and Bengal Chicken Curry. The salad always has fresh greens grown on the grounds and the very tasty homemade Nurture Oriental Dressing is a staple item.
Nurture Spa promotes an overall being of wellness so there are also yoga classes and meditation courses for different levels of students. The founders believe that yoga is best for inner healing not only physically but emotionally. There are many yoga poses that massage internal organs such as the heart, the liver, the kidneys, and promote harmony within the body. Meditation, which has its foundation on deep breathing and clearing of the mind is a wonderful tool to de-stress and have a complete feeling of rejuvenation and balance.
Overall, Nurture Spa has been aptly named because it does nurture and care for the four pillars for growth and harmony. The body, the mind, the soul and the heart.
Hong Kong
Published in Lifestyle Asia Magazine 2006
The Pulse of Asia
Long known as being a shopping mecca as well as the home of gastronomic delights, Hong Kong is now being touted as the place to be for anything and everything. This world class city with an endless array of shops and restaurants, a bustling harbour and a perfect blend of Western and Eastern cultures is now opening even more doors to accommodate the tastes, interests and energies of world travelers and first time adventurers alike.
First on the list of sites to see is the chic boutique hotel apartments of JIA, meaning “home” in Mandarin. JIA is in a class all on its own, it is the first and only boutique hotel in Hong Kong and can boast of being the first hotel designed by French design master Philp Starck in Asia. It has 57 rooms, two of which are Penthouses all built within a 15 year old residential building in the bustling Causeway Bay area, a location known for its shopping and entertainment establishments. The hotel showcases Starcks sleek and modern designs, accented by very eclectic and eye catching furnishing and pieces of art. JIA offers hotel apartments that are fully equipped with tableware and cookware, top of the range audio visual equipment, including a flat-screen TV, a home theatre system and free broadband connectivity, all provided to make the guest feel “home away from home” JIA Hotel 1-5 Irving Street, Causeway Bay (852) 3196-9000 www.jiahongkong.com
Getting around Hong Kong is never a problem as there are a variety of ways to get from place to place. For a bit of nostalgia hop on a tram, historically, the first tram fleet consisted of 26 single-deck trams imported from England. These tramcars were replaced by double-deck tramcars in 1912, with permanent roofs added to the cars by 1923. The fleet now consists of 164 double-decker trams, that makes the only fully double-decker tram fleet in the world, with two open-balcony trams (#28, #128). There are stations located at the following (west to east): Kennedy Town, Whitty Street, Western Market, Prince's Building (Central, westbound), Landmark (Central, westbound), Worldwide House (Central, eastbound), Pacific Place (Admiralty), Happy Valley, Percival St. (Causeway Bay, eastbound), Sogo (Causeway Bay, westbound), North Point, Shau Kei Wan. Depots are located at Sai Wan Ho (between North Point and Shau Kei Wan), and Whitty Street. Take a trip down to the Western Market in Sheung Wan for a little shopping and a glimpse of old Hong Kong.
The Western Market, with its red brick walls and large granite arch over the main entrance, certainly stands out from the surrounding office buildings. The Western Market which was formerly a food market built in 1906 was transformed in 1989 when the Land Development Corporation was contracted to restore and revitalize this historical Edwardian building, it was officially re-opened in 1991. Aside from traditional Chinese goods, there are also silks and fabrics, from the subtle to the gaudy available for purchase. Don’t leave without venturing up to the 3rd floor of the building which exhibits innovative and new designers in art, design and fashion. Habitus, a store which specializes in funky and eye catching home and office decor, such as a submerged bust of Mao Tse Tung is also on the 3rd floor. Pick up the schedule of upcoming art and fashion design shows happening around Hong Kong, profiles of the different artists and their work are also included.
Town Gas Avenue in Tsim Sha Tsui provides fine dining in an ultra chic interactive setting. The restaurant which is fronted by a shop specializing in home appliances and kitchenware has both an indoor café and an outdoor area facing the Harbour. An open kitchen and several flat screen TVs show how your dish is being prepared, and expert chefs are ready and open to sharing their recipes and cooking tips and techniques. The duck breast and guava salad is a favorite item on the menu especially for those into fusion food and a well stocked cellar of wines makes the café an ideal place for a meal or a relaxing drink. It is best to make reservations for a table as it fills up quickly by couples and families especially on weekends and for dinner. Town Gas Avenue is open every day from 11am for lunch, afternoon tea and dinner up until 10pm. For a quick look at the shop, café, its locations (there is another branch in Causway Bay) and their menu, there is a website www.towngasavenue.com.
Stroll along the newly opened Avenue of the Stars located on the Tsim Sha Tsui Promenade. Opened in April 2004, the Avenue of the Stars was made to pay tribute to the movie industry of Hong Kong and those who have turned it into the Hollywood of the East. It features pavement plaques commemorating Hong Kong movie personalities past and present; milestones outlining the local film industry's 100-year history; a welcoming video; sculptures; and souvenir kiosks, all of which will enable visitors to see and learn more about their favourite Hong Kong movies and movie stars. In addition, special lighting makes the atmosphere even more enchanting at night. Celebrites such as Jackie Chan and Andy Lau have hand prints on the commemorative plates among others and the Hong Kong Film Academy has donated a magnificent sculpture at the entrance of the boardwalk. After 8pm visitors can also stay to watch A Symphony of Lights along the Hong Kong Harbor.
Since January 17th 2004, Hong Kong’s magnificent harbour-front skyline comes to life in a blaze of colour and sound each night for from 8pm to 8:18pm. A Symphony of Lights is a choreographed light and sound show combining special interactive light and musical effects which re-tell the story of Hong Kong by showcasing 18 key buildings along the waterfront of Victoria Harbour. This impressive spectacle has its own soundtrack and narrative translated into several languages, English on Mondays, Wednesdays and Fridays, Putonghua on Tuesdays and Thursdays and Cantonese on Sundays. Specators can also listen to the soundtrack via various local radio stations, or by dialing a special number on their mobile phone.
For a nightcap, there is Aqua Spirit, which is best described as an uber glam bar. Found on the 30th floor of the very posh One Peking Road building in Kowloon’s new fashion district. Its mezzanine level is an unobstructed panoramic view of Victoria Harbour on one side, and the Kowloon district on the other side. It is touted as being the hippest venue of Hong Kong, with its plush seats and lounge chairs for patrons to sit in and chill out. The Aquatini is one of its specialty house drinks made out of Ketel One, lychee liquid, chambord and gold leaves. Aqua Sprit is on the 30th floor of One Peking Road, Tsim Sha Tsui tel. (852) 3427-2288 www.aqua.com.hk.
Hong Kong has also been the home for world class horseracing events having entered into the world class international ranks over the last decade. First class facilities are available at The Happy Valley Racecourse which is in the heart of Hong Kong Island and the Sha Tin Racecourse which now hosts the very prestigious Hong Kong International Races. The Sha Tin Racecourse has been around since 1978 and has a seating capacity of over 80,000 with premiere services available to spectators. It holds the world record for the worlds largest diamond vision screen (8 meters in height and 70.4 meters in width) it is parallel to watching 4,500 21 inch TV sets at the same time. Sha Tin also possesses the first ever retractable parade ring, which has a total area of 13000 square meters and may also sit an addition 4,800 racing fans. In December 2004 the first Cathay Pacific International Hong Kong Races were held, with an attendance of over 60,000 spectators and over U$7 million in prize money. Even those who don’t gamble will be swept up by the excitement and energy of watching the bright colors worn by the jockeys and horses as they gallop down the finish line to the cheers and yells of the spectators around them. Prepare to spend an entire day at the races if there is an international cup to be won.
From day to night there is always something happening in Hong Kong. A weekend trip can be turned into a full 48 hours of non-stop activity. Hong Kong can now be defined as the events capital of Asia.
Cathay Pacific flies to Hong Kong seven times a week, with 5-6 flights daily from Manila and one from Cebu.
The Pulse of Asia
Long known as being a shopping mecca as well as the home of gastronomic delights, Hong Kong is now being touted as the place to be for anything and everything. This world class city with an endless array of shops and restaurants, a bustling harbour and a perfect blend of Western and Eastern cultures is now opening even more doors to accommodate the tastes, interests and energies of world travelers and first time adventurers alike.
First on the list of sites to see is the chic boutique hotel apartments of JIA, meaning “home” in Mandarin. JIA is in a class all on its own, it is the first and only boutique hotel in Hong Kong and can boast of being the first hotel designed by French design master Philp Starck in Asia. It has 57 rooms, two of which are Penthouses all built within a 15 year old residential building in the bustling Causeway Bay area, a location known for its shopping and entertainment establishments. The hotel showcases Starcks sleek and modern designs, accented by very eclectic and eye catching furnishing and pieces of art. JIA offers hotel apartments that are fully equipped with tableware and cookware, top of the range audio visual equipment, including a flat-screen TV, a home theatre system and free broadband connectivity, all provided to make the guest feel “home away from home” JIA Hotel 1-5 Irving Street, Causeway Bay (852) 3196-9000 www.jiahongkong.com
Getting around Hong Kong is never a problem as there are a variety of ways to get from place to place. For a bit of nostalgia hop on a tram, historically, the first tram fleet consisted of 26 single-deck trams imported from England. These tramcars were replaced by double-deck tramcars in 1912, with permanent roofs added to the cars by 1923. The fleet now consists of 164 double-decker trams, that makes the only fully double-decker tram fleet in the world, with two open-balcony trams (#28, #128). There are stations located at the following (west to east): Kennedy Town, Whitty Street, Western Market, Prince's Building (Central, westbound), Landmark (Central, westbound), Worldwide House (Central, eastbound), Pacific Place (Admiralty), Happy Valley, Percival St. (Causeway Bay, eastbound), Sogo (Causeway Bay, westbound), North Point, Shau Kei Wan. Depots are located at Sai Wan Ho (between North Point and Shau Kei Wan), and Whitty Street. Take a trip down to the Western Market in Sheung Wan for a little shopping and a glimpse of old Hong Kong.
The Western Market, with its red brick walls and large granite arch over the main entrance, certainly stands out from the surrounding office buildings. The Western Market which was formerly a food market built in 1906 was transformed in 1989 when the Land Development Corporation was contracted to restore and revitalize this historical Edwardian building, it was officially re-opened in 1991. Aside from traditional Chinese goods, there are also silks and fabrics, from the subtle to the gaudy available for purchase. Don’t leave without venturing up to the 3rd floor of the building which exhibits innovative and new designers in art, design and fashion. Habitus, a store which specializes in funky and eye catching home and office decor, such as a submerged bust of Mao Tse Tung is also on the 3rd floor. Pick up the schedule of upcoming art and fashion design shows happening around Hong Kong, profiles of the different artists and their work are also included.
Town Gas Avenue in Tsim Sha Tsui provides fine dining in an ultra chic interactive setting. The restaurant which is fronted by a shop specializing in home appliances and kitchenware has both an indoor café and an outdoor area facing the Harbour. An open kitchen and several flat screen TVs show how your dish is being prepared, and expert chefs are ready and open to sharing their recipes and cooking tips and techniques. The duck breast and guava salad is a favorite item on the menu especially for those into fusion food and a well stocked cellar of wines makes the café an ideal place for a meal or a relaxing drink. It is best to make reservations for a table as it fills up quickly by couples and families especially on weekends and for dinner. Town Gas Avenue is open every day from 11am for lunch, afternoon tea and dinner up until 10pm. For a quick look at the shop, café, its locations (there is another branch in Causway Bay) and their menu, there is a website www.towngasavenue.com.
Stroll along the newly opened Avenue of the Stars located on the Tsim Sha Tsui Promenade. Opened in April 2004, the Avenue of the Stars was made to pay tribute to the movie industry of Hong Kong and those who have turned it into the Hollywood of the East. It features pavement plaques commemorating Hong Kong movie personalities past and present; milestones outlining the local film industry's 100-year history; a welcoming video; sculptures; and souvenir kiosks, all of which will enable visitors to see and learn more about their favourite Hong Kong movies and movie stars. In addition, special lighting makes the atmosphere even more enchanting at night. Celebrites such as Jackie Chan and Andy Lau have hand prints on the commemorative plates among others and the Hong Kong Film Academy has donated a magnificent sculpture at the entrance of the boardwalk. After 8pm visitors can also stay to watch A Symphony of Lights along the Hong Kong Harbor.
Since January 17th 2004, Hong Kong’s magnificent harbour-front skyline comes to life in a blaze of colour and sound each night for from 8pm to 8:18pm. A Symphony of Lights is a choreographed light and sound show combining special interactive light and musical effects which re-tell the story of Hong Kong by showcasing 18 key buildings along the waterfront of Victoria Harbour. This impressive spectacle has its own soundtrack and narrative translated into several languages, English on Mondays, Wednesdays and Fridays, Putonghua on Tuesdays and Thursdays and Cantonese on Sundays. Specators can also listen to the soundtrack via various local radio stations, or by dialing a special number on their mobile phone.
For a nightcap, there is Aqua Spirit, which is best described as an uber glam bar. Found on the 30th floor of the very posh One Peking Road building in Kowloon’s new fashion district. Its mezzanine level is an unobstructed panoramic view of Victoria Harbour on one side, and the Kowloon district on the other side. It is touted as being the hippest venue of Hong Kong, with its plush seats and lounge chairs for patrons to sit in and chill out. The Aquatini is one of its specialty house drinks made out of Ketel One, lychee liquid, chambord and gold leaves. Aqua Sprit is on the 30th floor of One Peking Road, Tsim Sha Tsui tel. (852) 3427-2288 www.aqua.com.hk.
Hong Kong has also been the home for world class horseracing events having entered into the world class international ranks over the last decade. First class facilities are available at The Happy Valley Racecourse which is in the heart of Hong Kong Island and the Sha Tin Racecourse which now hosts the very prestigious Hong Kong International Races. The Sha Tin Racecourse has been around since 1978 and has a seating capacity of over 80,000 with premiere services available to spectators. It holds the world record for the worlds largest diamond vision screen (8 meters in height and 70.4 meters in width) it is parallel to watching 4,500 21 inch TV sets at the same time. Sha Tin also possesses the first ever retractable parade ring, which has a total area of 13000 square meters and may also sit an addition 4,800 racing fans. In December 2004 the first Cathay Pacific International Hong Kong Races were held, with an attendance of over 60,000 spectators and over U$7 million in prize money. Even those who don’t gamble will be swept up by the excitement and energy of watching the bright colors worn by the jockeys and horses as they gallop down the finish line to the cheers and yells of the spectators around them. Prepare to spend an entire day at the races if there is an international cup to be won.
From day to night there is always something happening in Hong Kong. A weekend trip can be turned into a full 48 hours of non-stop activity. Hong Kong can now be defined as the events capital of Asia.
Cathay Pacific flies to Hong Kong seven times a week, with 5-6 flights daily from Manila and one from Cebu.
Batanes-Dios Mamajes
Published in Manual Magazine 2005
Dios Mamajes, Batanes
Easter break 2005, most of travel hungry Manila book months in advance to assure themselves of a well earned sojourn outside the Metropolis. So far, the promise of 24/7 partying and socializing in Boracay or the more relaxed “chill out” (literally) temperature of Baguio are the popular choices Having been to both locations in the past with frequency made me and my friends interested in something less commercial. An area less frequented, yet safe. So, if we wanted the best Easter trip, why not go straight to the top? And so to the top we went, the northernmost point in our archipelago, Batanes.
Batanes has gotten some attention in recent times. In fact, the Monday immediately following Easter Sunday, it headlined a local daily since as being eyed as a potential world heritage site. Before my trip, I did a little research, and all I got were comparisons in terms of landscape to Ireland and Scotland, without the excruciating sound of bagpipes. It also boasted of a 0% crime rate, and is certainly not the place for people to expect the amenities of a resort ( spa and 4 star and above) accommodations. It, like its landscape, is as natural as allowed to be, and so are what it has to offer. For those who are looking for something different to do, Batanes is well worth the trip at least from the months of Jan. to May due to it being the first area to be hit during typhoon season.
I have to be honest and say that if nature is not your thing then this may not be an ideal spot for you. If you want clean fresh air, if you want to cross the wide open seas, look at breathtaking views from unbelievable heights, then this a “must”. Be prepared to rough it, and it’s a good idea to be in shape as you will not fully experience Batanes’ beauty if you’re not ready to be immersed in it. Some things you should definitely bring, a camera, a windbreaker that can double as a raincoat, toiletries and extra supplies of anything you feel you cannot live without. As Batanes is not as “developed” commercially as other parts of the Philippines, sometimes buying a toothbrush is an adventure in itself. Oh, and don’t forget really comfortable hiking or rubber soled shoes.
Before I run off my list of what to do and how to get there, I ask that you remain conscientious and respectful of the simple ways of the locals (Ivatans) who are from Malay stock although some may also have descended from Taiwanese immigrants (Batanes is located closest to Formosa, Taiwan). Respect their environment and their way of life and enjoy the pleasant warmth of the people as they show you with great pride around their hometown. And you will soon learn a very useful phrase “Dios mamajes” (dyos mamahes) which means literally “God will give back to you” or colloquially used as “thank you”
I must thank Asia International Travel for making all the arrangements for us, from air transport to and from Batanes and land and water transport within Batanes and its surrounding islands. The number is 8124464 and you can contact: Marissa Araneta.
HOW TO GET THERE:
Asian Spirit flies directly to the island of Batan. Some opt to take a bus (like Autobus) to Laoag and charter a flight from Laoag to Batan.
WHERE TO STAY:
Shanedels. A house that is owned by Shane and Del(smile). It is a house converted to a hostel. No private bathrooms and no hot water, but you can purchase a portable heater from any department store to bring along. The couple is very pleasant and extremely helpful and allowed us (we were 6) the whole of the second floor and its bathroom which worked out pretty well. Call Dely 09204470737
If you want more privacy and beautiful views of the sea, you may want to check out Batanes Resort. Private cottages with their own bathrooms and hot water. The exteriors are charming as they are made from local and natural materials.
WHAT TO DO:
Depending on the no. of days you’re going to spending it would be worthwhile to check out the following places while in the Batan side:
Viewing Deck at Mahatao- A great first glimpse of the many breathtaking views as the water meets with the earth all throughout Batanes
Marlboro Country- heard time and time again as the backdrop of that famous a la “Wuthering Heights” Filipino movie. Just go see it for all its worth, and you will be thinking..my kingdom for a horse just to gallop across the plains.
Song Song Ruins- A ‘ghost town’ with ruins of stone houses left after a tsunami hit this area back in the 1950s. Try and ignore the basketball court (wish that was destroyed instead)
Uyugan Church (which was built in 1857)-For some reason reminded me of something you would have seen in Mexico.
San Jose Church at Ivana-this is the only church that was not built in the Spanish style. Offers a magnificent view of the sea as it fronts the Ivana Seaport (or Radiwan Port). Try and take a look at the original ruins at the back, which have tree roots growing out of them.
Old Loran Station-formerly a site of the US Coastguard. Aside from the decaying façade which makes good photo background material, there are wonderful views of the surrounding mountains and coastline
Fundacion Pacita du Tukon- the former residence of famed artist Pacita Abad (who was from Batanes) which has now been turned into a museum.
Fishing village at Diura which proudly boasts of a fountain or “spring of youth” (goodbye Vicki Belo) and a living cave full of crystal and limestone formations known as.. Crystal Cave.
Mt. Iraya, this is a dormant volcano which is any hikers dream come true. Whether its your first time to climb or you’ve been doing it all your life, the trail offers many rest stops where one may choose to relax as others continue on. It is recommended to start the climb very early in the morning to be able to have lunch at the peak and climb down before dark.
As you can see, this is a very brief rundown of things to do, trust me, there is much much more for the very adventurous to see. I would highly recommend a day trip to the island of Sabtang. There is adequate information available on the internet if you plan to make your next trip a Batanes one. The only downside was I wasn’t too impressed with the local cuisine but I did discover the gastronomic delights of freshly grilled “dorado” ( a non-mammalian dolphin) and their local version of “gabi” which was delicious when made into a salad. The name escapes me, but I can assure that any of the warm and uber helpful Ivatans will gladly tell you and serve it to you once you land on their beautiful shores.
Cebu Outskirt Outburst
Published in Lifestyle Asia Travel Magazine 2005
Day Trip Cebu
Roadtrip. The idea can be romantic for some, adventurous for others and a hostile NO WAY! for those who prefer to travel from one place to the other with a defined destination and itinerary. I have been an avid traveler for as long as I can remember, and no matter the mode of transport, as long as it can accommodate my body, a backpack, my camera and munchies I’m good to go. I am not considered an “extremist” of any sort, so I have yet to try a major off road jaunt, but I do like going to sights and scenes undiscovered or overrun by commercialism as I feel, there is always a way to look at something in an unequaled, uncopied way. So, when an invite to go see what’s around by hopping into a car, armed with a map and a good driver ( although control obsessed, when it comes to driving, I prefer the cushy shot gun position) I make sure that my batteries for my Nikon are charged and that I have something to record my notes on. Weapons of choice is a black moleskin sketchpad and a pencil.
Here’s the thing, as I mentioned previously, a roadtrip does evoke several reactions depending on your target audience, and someone very wise told me, that if you want someone to come back for more…the first experience must always be pleasant. So, here I go, with a roadtrip itinerary for newbies…those who want the “luxury” of getting away on a mini-break with the potential “roughness” of the unpredictable and the bragging rights that somehow (although the tale must be somewhat edited) they went off the beaten path.
Why Cebu? First and foremost, Cebu is the 2nd largest metropolitan city in the Philippines. Translation if your group or companion whom you’ve convinced to fly out with you decide to wimp out, they can always find a five star accommodation and the same amenities they would find in Metro Manila within reach in the Queen City of the South.. You have to FLY out to get to Cebu, so it certainly qualifies as an OUT OF TOWN road trip. As long as hardcore roatrippers don’t ask for too many details, they will certainly be impressed by the idea that you had to travel a significant distance for said excursion. Another advantage of doing a road trip in Cebu is the availability of comfortable vehicles to sit a rather fussy rear end ( and the person its attached to) in. You can rent a car, or hire a car and a driver…if you don’t want to do the actual driving. I was lucky enough to be invited by someone who had purchased an imported Land Cruiser Prado, it was complete with sun roof, and in my opinion the best feature a built in cooler in between the two front seats! It certainly was the perfect size for two large bottles of mineral water and as many other less healthy varieties of liquid replenishment available in the market.
An appropriate time to start off discovering the outskirts of Cebu would be very early in the morning and on a weekend. Sunday was the day of choice for a whole day getaway. Cebu, having the charms of a cosmopolitan city is also a victim of its traffic and jams, so a Sunday while people are still sleeping in from a Saturday night out is perfect.
For those early birds, you can leave as early as 6am to catch the rising sun, and for those who would like some time to actually wake up and be coherent, 8am is also good. As this is written with the spirit of fun, and LOTS of excuses to turn back or not proceed forward, I have included as many rest stops as possible and the most scenic for endless photo taking and video opportunities. One thing I will stress is that no matter if you’re on the road, off the road, on-foot, traveling leisurely or traveling for the adrenaline rush of adventure sports, it’s always good karma to respect your environment, its inhabitants and of course the people around you. There is a saying that goes:
Leave nothing but footprints
Take nothing but pictures
Kill nothing but time
Keep nothing but memories.
With this in mind, the roadtrip begins.
8am-Getting ready to leave your hotel or resort of choice, we will assume that by this time you are in the city center and not in the island of Mactan which will probably incur 20 mins more travel time (without traffic). First stop is BIG BUCKS COFFEE, a 24 hour (I just love anything open 24 hours) coffee shop that looks suspiciously similar to a world renowned Seattle originated coffee shop chain. There is a great selection of teas, coffee, and other beverages, plus sandwiches and pastries ( I like their veggie sandwich) that you can take with you on your trip, if you’re the type who doesn’t get carsick and can eat in the car. There are about 3 flat screen tvs tuned into CNN so if you’re not into reading the daily rag ( they can give you nasty print ink stains) you can catch a little news before heading out. Direction chosen for this day is the South West of Cebu..a good drive along the coast.
830am By this time or even earlier, you have been traveling on the very scenic SRP or South Reclamation Project. This area is the future address of the Department of Tourism. It is an extremely well paved spacious highway that allows really good views of the sea to the left, and the Central Business District to the right. A great photo opportunity along here would be the old and abandoned Casa de la Maritima. Not too sure if you can actually pull over and get down, but it’s worth a shot ( literally). Am not an expert on architecture, but the leftover structure is very pretty, the filmmaker in my head whispers “great place to shoot a film”. Cebu has benefited from renovations on its roads and highways for the last six years under the leadership of its Governor, Gwen Garcia.
( Whose name sounds disturbingly similar to a Viva Hot Babe)
9am After about 30km of commenting on the smoothness of the road ( I have yet to encounter one so smooth besides the Skyway in Metro Manila) you can stop for breakfast and a rest at Pulchra, a five star resort located in San Isidro, San Fernando. Don’t drive too fast or else you will miss the sign. I highly recommend the fil. Breakfast as the boneless bangus is not served the way it usually is..the whole fish laid out in front of you, but in small very cut-table portions. The entire resort seems to be connected by a pool, and in fact, since the beach is nothing special in my opinion, a guest should opt for a room that has its own private pool. If one hour on the road has already tired you out, it would be a good idea to spend the next couple of hours relaxing in Pulchra, by the main pool or perhaps treat yourself to an early morning massage.
1130 After you leave the long driveway of Pulchra, within 20 mins you should hit the town Carcar-or as I have nicknamed it Chicharon Pitstop. When you get to the main square you can do a little sightseeing and visit the Church, take photos of the façade of the emergency hospital and the school of St. Catherine. Again, I know nothing about architecture but I’m pretty sure they were constructed under Spanish influence. As I mentioned earlier, this is the best place to buy some snacks for your road trip, there are chicharon vendors a plenty, and for those followers of Islam or strict vegetarians, you can always purchase other Cebu like treats such as ampao or bocayo. I never leave a pitstop without nourishment..just in case. After the photo snapping and the snacking, continue south.
12pm Although the roads narrow slightly as you pass through the towns of Barili, Dumanjug, they remain pot hole and crack free. In other words, if you’re not too interested in seeing what’s outside the window and have finished an entire bag of chicharon, it’s a perfect time to take quick catnap before you reach
1pm Moalboal offers several resorts along its white beach where you can stop for lunch. There is the Asian Belgian Resort, The Dolphin House, and the place where GMA stayed when she did a diving trip, Club Serena. My suggestion is, if you dive, this is the best place for a quick one. If the rest of your party doesn’t dive, they can have lunch, tan and swim.
3pm Kawasan Falls, Badian. You know you’re going the right way as you continue to head down south when you spot the signage KAWASAN FALLS on the left side of the street at the entrance of Matutinao Park right after a church. These falls are a no-miss and it’s best to see them while the sun is still high up in the sky. I had heard about these falls prior to my road trip and was not expecting much since I thought..falls, are falls. It’s about a 30 min. walk from where you park your car ( P 50 parking fee!!-Makati prices!) to the first set of falls. The walk is a journey into itself as the pathway is lush with foliage and a continous running stream. I exaggerate a little bit when I say it reminded me to a certain degree of the pathway from Elron..to wherever the Hobbit and the rest of his troupe had to go to save…never mind, I’m sure you get my drift. The falls are certainly worth the walk, and there are two bridges one can cross to get there. I would highly suggest a swim and a little raft trip towards the falls, the water is clean and you can see right through to the bottom. The rest stop here is called Wily’s Place and you can have a snack and a drink before and after your swim there is a P10 entrance fee per head. The water feels invigorating and there is some kind of elemental magic in the air being so close to nature. Just try and turn a blind eye to the monoblock chairs and plastic table covers at the restaurant. The entire setting is very picturesque and if you are a frustrated botanist or would like to pretend you have a natural green thumb, you will appreciate the wide variety of tropical plants that have sprouted all over the area.
6pm-At this point, there are two options. The first is to continue down south and do the whole tip of the island and head home, or, the second, which is just to head back home. Perfect time to catch the setting sun on the drive back. On the way, if you get hungry and have already finished the chicharon and other snack previously purchased, there are several roadside bakeshops that offer a variety of pastries. One favorite that is reminiscent of my childhood at least is a kind of bread that is filled with butter and sugar. Not the most calorie or diabetic friendly snack but delicious all the same. Without traffic and any bathroom stopovers, the drive should take around 8pm, just in time for dinner in any of the establishments found in the city center. I prefer the ambiance of The Tinder Box located in Banilad. Good place to grab a good glass of wine, deli like fare, and for others, to light up a cigar.
10pm- A good after dinner wrap up and a perfect way to end a road trip is a trip to Meddah spa which is at The Crossroads, a row of restaurants, clubs and other nightspots right beside The Tinder Box. The beauty of Meddah is that it’s open til quite late and is very peaceful and quiet once inside. You can opt for foot reflexology or an overall body shiatsu massage.
After an hour or so of bliss, you can head back to your hotel room and reminisce on the trip. In my case, I went through the various photos I took felt tranquil and relaxed after my massage to go into deep sleep. Ready again, perhaps for another roadtrip the next morning. I hope your first trip and the subsequent ones you take will always be pleasant.
Information: Pulchra Resort, San Isidro, San Fernando. + 63 (32) 2320823 to 25 email:info@pulchraresorts.com for room rates and types visit www.pulchraresorts.com
Meddah Spa Unit R&S Crossroads, Banilad Mon.-Sun. 11pm final booking at 10pm tel. + 63 (32) 2342080 or 234 2083
Club Serena Resort, Basdaku, Moalboal Telefax +63 32 232 5907
Mobile +63 920 902 8888 or www.clubserenaresort.com
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