Friday, June 22, 2007
Lazy blogging
Before I get into this blog, let me take the lazy way out and just cross post all the articles that I've written, that have been published before I start with new thoughts.
Wednesday, June 20, 2007
The Real Brunei Beauty
The Real Brunei Beauty
Katrina A. Holigores treks deep in to the Brunei forest and gets high (literally)
Photographs by Katrina A. Holigores
I’ve always loved the great outdoors and have never balked at the idea of doing things just for adventure. Whitewater rafting, cliff climbing, snow and water sports are already happily crossed out from my “things to do before you die” list. Trekking in the wild outdoors, though, is something that never leaves my list and I indulge in it as often as possible. I don’t think anything can beat a good old nature hike, basking in the benevolent shade of age-old trees and filling your lungs with the freshest air. It was a bit surprising for me to learn on my recent trip to Brunei that they actually had a national park where one could swim, hike and be one with wild animals (and possibly wild people). The two-hour flight from Manila to Brunei was made rather pleasant by the excellent service of Royal Brunei Airlines; although I must say that flying will never really hold any charms for me. I ordered my low-salt meal and fell asleep in my chair that seemed to recline to the level of a nice cushy bed. Ah…
The city of Brunei itself was clean, and not very densely populated. The hotel, a “six-star,” sprawling structure by the name of The Empire, was lavish and an astounding sight for its sheer size and the decoration (gold and semi-precious stones) which adorned the lobby and some of the more exclusive suites. Even with all the pampering that one can expect from a hotel of this caliber, I was looking forward to venture outside my massive 100-square meter room and see what Brunei was all about. The tour guide spoke about the Ulu Temburong National Park, a lush and green area measuring around 50,000 hectares. Only 100 of it though, are designated as park grounds. Located on the Borneo island, Brunei still has about 70% virgin forest left—pretty astounding, considering all the (ahem) progress that has been going on in the rest of the world…
Wait—Borneo? Isn’t that where you find headhunters, cannibals, and savages? (Nope, that’s Congress.) Anyway, our group had the assurance of our savvy travel agent and Brunei regular, Vernon Prieto, that he had been to the National Park several times and had returned uneaten (although his head did look a little small…) Joking aside, we were promised a marvelous journey into the best that nature had to offer, plus a healthy way to burn the all-you-can-eat buffet we exploited at our hotel. The highlight of Temburong was the canopy walkway that rises up about 50 meters from the ground. It doesn’t sound too impressive in terms of height, but the thing was, just to get to the “ground” we had to climb about 1500 steps up a mountain. Of course, these are things I only found out once we arrived at the park.
We took a jetty from Brunei to the capital of Temburong, Bangsar town, then took a 30-minute bus ride to the Batang Duri Jetty, then were transported right via a temuai, similar to a bangka without the katigs on the side. This ride up the Temburong River took us across many rapids and the breeze coming in from all sides as we passed through an endless amount of trees was absolutely refreshing. If I wasn’t trying to desperately spot wild animals I probably would have fallen asleep. The indigenous people of Temburong, called Iban, manned the boats, and with great skill I must add. The water level can sometimes be quite low, so they have to maneuver the temuai over sand bars, rocks and even fallen logs.
On the river ride, I was fortunate enough to spot a couple of egrets. For those who are more sharp-eyed (and patient) than I, it is said that small reptiles are also plentiful here: the green Wagler’s Pit Viper, flying lizards and even geckos. Our guide happily reported that if we went into darker parts of the jungle, we would be able to spot some alligators. (Or was it crocodiles?) Whatever, we weren’t particularly interested—more out of fear, and not an adversity to reptiles. At the headquarters, we were informed guests could also choose to do a two-day tour of the rainforest which would give them more opportunities to not only see the animals mentioned above, but all types of insects, amphibians, birds, mammals and botanical wonders. Upon hearing this, I kind of regretted that we only had one day to stay. I have no fear of wild, exotic animals for as long as I have a highly skilled, sensitive guide who will die for me in case I am attacked (and I’m only half joking).
So up the mountain we went. It wasn’t a terribly steep climb and by the halfway point (around 600+ steps) I could already feel my breakfast and the overindulgent dinner slowly melt away. I was also melting from the heat, but because of the shade of the trees, I wasn’t feeling drained or even feel like stopping for a rest. Nature is really invigorating, especially if you allow yourself to be inspired by it. The trees were majestic, the chirping of birds and insects make me feel like a female Tarzan.
My other companions scaled the steps at his or her pace. That way, nobody felt that they were in an Ironman Triathlon. At 45 meters up, we were allowed an undeniably spectacular birds-eye view of the park. The bridge itself was a bit shaky, but no way, at any point, did I feel like I was in any danger. I think a couple more meters up and I could have touched the clouds. Talk about having an (aluminum) palace in the sky.
Going down was of course, much easier than going up. Before we returned to Bangsar to take the jetty back to Brunei City, the group made a cultural side trip—a visit to a traditional Iban longhouse. A long house is er, long, as it is an elevated abode split up into about 10-15 sections to accommodate 10 to15 Iban families! It’s communal living at its most comfortable. Some tribes choose to have very simple living arrangements, with a common room for the elders and the children to run around and play in, while some opt for more modern fittings built out of concrete instead of wood. There is a “head” family of the household and I guess this kind of authority and leadership prevents it from turning into a Melrose Place on stilts.
The feeling I got overall from my short stay in Brunei and its surroundings was one of peace. The people lived in relative harmony, and the differences in religions and backgrounds seemed to make no difference. My experience of the highs (literally) and longs (literally as well) of Brunei was definitely one for my books. Who knows, maybe next time around, I will get to see even more wildlife. The proboscis monkey is found only in Brunei and famed for its, uh, special salute. (Yes, the name is a clue.) Jempat Lagi!, say the Bruneians. I’ll take that as a standing invitation.
Your Itinerary
How To Get There: Royal Brunei Airlines flies six times a week from Manila to Bandar Seri Bagawan, the Brunei capital. For reservations or bookings, contact the Royal Brunei general sales agent at phone (2) 897 3309 and (2) 895 3545, e-mail
Where To Stay: The Empire Hotel And Country Club is an award-winning, breathtaking palatial resort fit for a sultan (or king). Opened in 2000, The Empire has won numerous awards as one of Asia’s best resorts, notably winning the World’s Leading Presidential Suite from the World Travel Awards two years running (2003, 2004). Visit
Tuesday, June 19, 2007
Tam-Awan Village, Baguio
Published in What's On and Expat Newspaper
Tam-Awan Village,Baguio: Garden in the Sky
By Katrina A. Holigores
Known to many as the summer capital of the Philippines, Baguio city is also a treasure chest of fond childhood memories for me and members of my family. From going round (literally) in circles on the locally bred horses at Wright Park, to the first bite of salty grilled corn in Mines View, a trip to Baguio holds a promise of great weather, blue skies and lots of activities. The city which is located in the province of Ilocos Norte (about 5-6 hours by car from Manila and one hour by plane) was developed originally as an R&R location for the American soldiers.
Nowadays visitors come to Baguio to enjoy cooler climates, see the offerings in terms of shopping on very busy Session Road, experience alternative dining atmospheres such as Oh My Gulay in Vocas and Café by the Ruins as well as the local art scene that Baguio has long been known for. National Artist Ben Cabrera has called Baguio his home for many years and a visit to his house is an unforgettable experience due to the beautifully sunlit area he uses as a studio that is filled from end to end with his paintings and personal collection of bulols ( rice gods).
A recent trip to the north got me curious about a place that was part of the brainchild of Ben Cabrera and Chit Asignation called Tam-awan Village of “Garden in the Sky”. Ben Cabrera otherwise known as Bencab is no longer active with the community but Chit Asignation remains passionate about this makeshift Ifugao village in the area of Pinsao which now serves as an artist community and a tourist must see. My longtime friend, the very enthusiastic and engaging Nina Poblador offered to be my guide into Tam-awan one bright and rather chilly day.
For those who have had the fortune of eating at the badly missed Kusina Salud, Nina and husband/ chef Paul were the proprietors of this quirky haven which hosted visitors both local and international with mouthwatering food and drink during their Baguio jaunts. After Nina and I paid a visit to Bencab we set off to walk down the road to Tam-awan which was semi pleasant due to the weather and not so due to the amount of vehicles that passed us on the way there.
Perhaps one day there will be efforts to rid the city of smoke belching modes of transport. When the entire city of Baguio was still adequate grazing land for cattle, the area where Tam-awan village is now located had a spring which served as a major water source. Thus, the place became associated with chanum, which in Ibaloi, means water.
Adopting the name to symbolize its vision, Chanum Foundation, Inc. took on the role of being as nurturing and life-giving as the spring in Tam-awan Village. Chit Asignation, who now serves as the Vice President for the Chanum Foundation was present to greet Nina and I as we ascended the steps of Tam-awan. There were already many tourists (Korean and European) who were waiting patiently for a performance from the Tam-awan dancers, all dressed in indigenous garb. To while the time away, some were having their portraits done by several artists who have made Tam-awan their second home.
Chit explained to me that The Chanum Foundation, which was founded in 1996, began to reconstruct Ifugao houses in Baguio with the view of making a village model accessible to people who have not had the chance to travel to the Cordilleras. They started out with three knocked-down huts which were transported from Bangaan, Ifugao. Currently guests of Tam-awan can see seven Ifugao huts and two Kalinga houses. The huts are still made out of original materials although they had to add new cogon roofs. With the aid of traditional artisans the huts were reconstructed and eventually laid out to best resemble the design of a traditional Cordillera Village.
Before the performance started I got a chance to look inside the colorful interiors of the Gallery Café. One can purchase artwork from the artists belonging to the community as well as have something to eat and drink. There was also an ongoing art exhibit in another gallery (with no café) and I was given the schedule for 2007, it seems in their sincere support for the local art scene Tam-awan has become the home for both the artists and a perfect venue for them to display their works year round. I heard Chit announcing that the performance was about to start so I found a little niche between the stone floors and proceeded to take photos of the dancers, getting lost in their music and amazed at the amount of strength and control it took to do some of the moves in the “ritual courtship dance” which was the first act.
After the performance guests were served boiled kamote ( sweet potato) and invited to feast on local fare such as native chicken in broth or pinikpikan (the chicken, upon research is not killed in the most humane of manners but is integral to the taste of the dish) with rice and local vegetables. I do not eat fowl if I can help it but I did help myself to some of the warm broth and rice and must admit it was very tasty. After the carb loading I was off to climb up the rest of Tam-awan village to take a look at the huts and the view. On a clear day one can see a breathtaking sunset and part of the South China Sea.
While trying my best to frame an entire Ifugao hut into a photo I was told that there are some differences between an Ifugao and a Kalinga Hut. As architecture has never been easy for me to understand, I read the definition from the well-written Tam-awan website. “An Ifugao house is compact and though deceptively simple, its architecture is quite sophisticated. Built by clever mortisans without nails or hardware, it exemplifies the exactness of Ifugao construction and uses heavy hand-hewn timber. Elevated to about shoulder height by four posts usually made of hard wood, the house, with periodic re-roofing, can last several generations.
The Kalinga house is a more spacious commode and is made with the same hand-hewn pinewood. The binayon is the traditional octagonal house of Southern Kalinga Province and Tam-awan.” Guests may also choose to stay the night (or two) in one of these huts and there are also workshops that they may participate in during their stay. As I crossed the hanging bridge and started to make my way out of Tam-awan, I thanked Chit and Nina for a very enriching albeit brief look into another side of Baguio. This, I felt, brought me closer to what existed before the horseback riding and the grilled corn, and I am forever grateful for an added opportunity for me to build new memories of what I can also be called the Summer Art Capital of the Philippines.
What to do at Tam-awan
FEATURES AND ACTIVITIES • Accommodations in authentic Ifugao huts • Venue for conferences, seminars & workshops • Dap-ay (stone-paved gathering place) • Art Gallery and Crafts Shop • Coffee shop • Fishpond • Indigenous flora and fauna • Eco-tours • Sunset-viewing • Martial Arts demonstrations • Art Work shops • Livelihood and crafts demonstrations on: - Paper making - Printmaking - Basket weaving - Bamboo craft - Rice wine making - Solar drawing - Drawing and painting • Interaction with Baguio and Cordillera artists • Cultural shows WORKSHOPS · PAPERMAKING · PRINTMAKING · TEXTILE ART · SOLAR DRAWING · BASIC / ADVANCE DRAWING · Others: - Oil Pastel - Printmaking with collograph - Monoprints - Rubber cuts - Other workshops as per request/s would depend on the availability of artist Rates Lodging 1 PERSON Php 500.00 2 PERSONS Php 900.00 3 PERSONS Php 1,100.00 For an EXTRA PERSON add Php 200 each GROUP (10 PAX OR MORE) Php 250 each For meals, reservations must be made in advance. Tam-awan Villa ge is located in Pinsao Proper 2600 Baguio City For more information call (074) 446-2949 go to: www.tamawanvillage.com
Saturday, June 16, 2007
Nurture Spa-Tagaytay
Published in Lifestyle Asia
A Nurturing Experience
Spa and nature lovers alike will enjoy the very unique and ecologically friendly atmosphere that surrounds Nurture Spa in Barrio Maitim, Tagaytay. The brain child of Cathy Brillantes-Palma, this secluded hideaway offers couples, singles and even families the chance to escape the madness of Manila and find a couple of hours (even days) of relaxation, overall wellness and mouth watering Asian Fusion cuisine. The trip from Manila will only take you about 1 1.2 hours to 2 hours at the most, with many signs with the Nurture Spa logo along the way to guide you to your destination. As you drive past the coffee orchards and the pineapple plantations on your way to the spa, the memories of the city are left far, far behind. The minute you alight from you car you already feel the cool, Tagaytay weather and take in the lush, tropical garden that is the backdrop for this spa. After a quick orientation, the staff takes your blood pressure and explains what’s on your agenda for the day. A tour of the grounds and directions are given to the location of various treatment rooms and the café before one is brought to their accommodations. Authentic Ifugao huts, some of which are more than a 100 years old are all naturally ventilated and can comfortably fit two, because they are elevated they capture the incoming Tagaytay breezes and are relatively cool. There are also the Serenity cottages, which are air conditioned, and have bathtubs and two massage tables on the first floor. This is a good option for guests who would rather have some privacy and the option of not having to leave right after their massage is done.
Among the treatments, Nurture Spa pampers from head to toe. For a persons “Crowning Glory” there is the Coco Aloe Royal Hair Spa and the Lavender Hair Rejuvenation. Both treatments promise maximum moisture and hydration for the hair, the former using jasmine oil while the latter lavender and tea tree essential oils. There are many options for facials, although men can opt for the Makisig Gentlemen’s Facial since this is more suitable to their skin. A spa favorite is the Sutlang Camia facial which thoroughly cleanses, softens and whitens the skin. All facials come with a light massage on the head, neck, arms and shoulders to further induce relaxation.
For full body treatments, there are again a number of massages, scrubs and wraps that are available. The Ginhawa Body Massage is 90 mins. Of pure bliss which helps balance out the nervous and emotional systems through combined aroma therapy oils. For couples, there is Magsing-Irog Massage that uses the seductive blend of ylang ylang, sandalwood and lavender oils. A unique scrub offered is the Four Blend Kape Barako scrub wherein finely ground coffee beans from Batangas are blended with special herbs. This combination is not only fragrant it also assists the skin and body by stimulating circulation. A must try for the wrap is the Hilom Dead Sea Mud Wrap, the minerals that exist in Dead Sea Mud are miracle workers in fighting acne, eczema and have been known to ease muscular and rheumatic pain. All body treatments are inclusive of a floral foot bath and finished off with the offering of herbal tea and a fresh fruit in system.
As mentioned previously, Nurture Spa pampers from head to toe, so guests can also benefit from hand and foot spas. These are done outside in beautiful wooden gazebo like structures. If one chooses for the ultimate pampering, the Bighani Luhur which lasts for 180 mins is the best alternative. It starts off with a fresh herbal scrub which exfoliates the skin, a full body massage to loosen the muscles and then a yoghurt wrap to nourish the skin. After the treatment is done, a warm floral soak completes the experience.
While the treatments are meant to pamper the external aspect of the body, the spa also takes into consideration the internal workings of its guests. The café offers delicious gastronomical delights that will satisfy any palette, be it a meat lover or a full-on vegetarian. The café gives a choice between the Spa Cuisine Meal with healthy low fat dishes such as Fettucini with Tofu and Nurture Tomato Sauce, or the Full Set Meal that has pasta and other main course selections ranging from Lamb Chops Madagascar and Bengal Chicken Curry. The salad always has fresh greens grown on the grounds and the very tasty homemade Nurture Oriental Dressing is a staple item.
Nurture Spa promotes an overall being of wellness so there are also yoga classes and meditation courses for different levels of students. The founders believe that yoga is best for inner healing not only physically but emotionally. There are many yoga poses that massage internal organs such as the heart, the liver, the kidneys, and promote harmony within the body. Meditation, which has its foundation on deep breathing and clearing of the mind is a wonderful tool to de-stress and have a complete feeling of rejuvenation and balance.
Overall, Nurture Spa has been aptly named because it does nurture and care for the four pillars for growth and harmony. The body, the mind, the soul and the heart.
Hong Kong
Published in Lifestyle Asia Magazine 2006
The Pulse of Asia
Long known as being a shopping mecca as well as the home of gastronomic delights, Hong Kong is now being touted as the place to be for anything and everything. This world class city with an endless array of shops and restaurants, a bustling harbour and a perfect blend of Western and Eastern cultures is now opening even more doors to accommodate the tastes, interests and energies of world travelers and first time adventurers alike.
First on the list of sites to see is the chic boutique hotel apartments of JIA, meaning “home” in Mandarin. JIA is in a class all on its own, it is the first and only boutique hotel in Hong Kong and can boast of being the first hotel designed by French design master Philp Starck in Asia. It has 57 rooms, two of which are Penthouses all built within a 15 year old residential building in the bustling Causeway Bay area, a location known for its shopping and entertainment establishments. The hotel showcases Starcks sleek and modern designs, accented by very eclectic and eye catching furnishing and pieces of art. JIA offers hotel apartments that are fully equipped with tableware and cookware, top of the range audio visual equipment, including a flat-screen TV, a home theatre system and free broadband connectivity, all provided to make the guest feel “home away from home” JIA Hotel 1-5 Irving Street, Causeway Bay (852) 3196-9000 www.jiahongkong.com
Getting around Hong Kong is never a problem as there are a variety of ways to get from place to place. For a bit of nostalgia hop on a tram, historically, the first tram fleet consisted of 26 single-deck trams imported from England. These tramcars were replaced by double-deck tramcars in 1912, with permanent roofs added to the cars by 1923. The fleet now consists of 164 double-decker trams, that makes the only fully double-decker tram fleet in the world, with two open-balcony trams (#28, #128). There are stations located at the following (west to east): Kennedy Town, Whitty Street, Western Market, Prince's Building (Central, westbound), Landmark (Central, westbound), Worldwide House (Central, eastbound), Pacific Place (Admiralty), Happy Valley, Percival St. (Causeway Bay, eastbound), Sogo (Causeway Bay, westbound), North Point, Shau Kei Wan. Depots are located at Sai Wan Ho (between North Point and Shau Kei Wan), and Whitty Street. Take a trip down to the Western Market in Sheung Wan for a little shopping and a glimpse of old Hong Kong.
The Western Market, with its red brick walls and large granite arch over the main entrance, certainly stands out from the surrounding office buildings. The Western Market which was formerly a food market built in 1906 was transformed in 1989 when the Land Development Corporation was contracted to restore and revitalize this historical Edwardian building, it was officially re-opened in 1991. Aside from traditional Chinese goods, there are also silks and fabrics, from the subtle to the gaudy available for purchase. Don’t leave without venturing up to the 3rd floor of the building which exhibits innovative and new designers in art, design and fashion. Habitus, a store which specializes in funky and eye catching home and office decor, such as a submerged bust of Mao Tse Tung is also on the 3rd floor. Pick up the schedule of upcoming art and fashion design shows happening around Hong Kong, profiles of the different artists and their work are also included.
Town Gas Avenue in Tsim Sha Tsui provides fine dining in an ultra chic interactive setting. The restaurant which is fronted by a shop specializing in home appliances and kitchenware has both an indoor café and an outdoor area facing the Harbour. An open kitchen and several flat screen TVs show how your dish is being prepared, and expert chefs are ready and open to sharing their recipes and cooking tips and techniques. The duck breast and guava salad is a favorite item on the menu especially for those into fusion food and a well stocked cellar of wines makes the café an ideal place for a meal or a relaxing drink. It is best to make reservations for a table as it fills up quickly by couples and families especially on weekends and for dinner. Town Gas Avenue is open every day from 11am for lunch, afternoon tea and dinner up until 10pm. For a quick look at the shop, café, its locations (there is another branch in Causway Bay) and their menu, there is a website www.towngasavenue.com.
Stroll along the newly opened Avenue of the Stars located on the Tsim Sha Tsui Promenade. Opened in April 2004, the Avenue of the Stars was made to pay tribute to the movie industry of Hong Kong and those who have turned it into the Hollywood of the East. It features pavement plaques commemorating Hong Kong movie personalities past and present; milestones outlining the local film industry's 100-year history; a welcoming video; sculptures; and souvenir kiosks, all of which will enable visitors to see and learn more about their favourite Hong Kong movies and movie stars. In addition, special lighting makes the atmosphere even more enchanting at night. Celebrites such as Jackie Chan and Andy Lau have hand prints on the commemorative plates among others and the Hong Kong Film Academy has donated a magnificent sculpture at the entrance of the boardwalk. After 8pm visitors can also stay to watch A Symphony of Lights along the Hong Kong Harbor.
Since January 17th 2004, Hong Kong’s magnificent harbour-front skyline comes to life in a blaze of colour and sound each night for from 8pm to 8:18pm. A Symphony of Lights is a choreographed light and sound show combining special interactive light and musical effects which re-tell the story of Hong Kong by showcasing 18 key buildings along the waterfront of Victoria Harbour. This impressive spectacle has its own soundtrack and narrative translated into several languages, English on Mondays, Wednesdays and Fridays, Putonghua on Tuesdays and Thursdays and Cantonese on Sundays. Specators can also listen to the soundtrack via various local radio stations, or by dialing a special number on their mobile phone.
For a nightcap, there is Aqua Spirit, which is best described as an uber glam bar. Found on the 30th floor of the very posh One Peking Road building in Kowloon’s new fashion district. Its mezzanine level is an unobstructed panoramic view of Victoria Harbour on one side, and the Kowloon district on the other side. It is touted as being the hippest venue of Hong Kong, with its plush seats and lounge chairs for patrons to sit in and chill out. The Aquatini is one of its specialty house drinks made out of Ketel One, lychee liquid, chambord and gold leaves. Aqua Sprit is on the 30th floor of One Peking Road, Tsim Sha Tsui tel. (852) 3427-2288 www.aqua.com.hk.
Hong Kong has also been the home for world class horseracing events having entered into the world class international ranks over the last decade. First class facilities are available at The Happy Valley Racecourse which is in the heart of Hong Kong Island and the Sha Tin Racecourse which now hosts the very prestigious Hong Kong International Races. The Sha Tin Racecourse has been around since 1978 and has a seating capacity of over 80,000 with premiere services available to spectators. It holds the world record for the worlds largest diamond vision screen (8 meters in height and 70.4 meters in width) it is parallel to watching 4,500 21 inch TV sets at the same time. Sha Tin also possesses the first ever retractable parade ring, which has a total area of 13000 square meters and may also sit an addition 4,800 racing fans. In December 2004 the first Cathay Pacific International Hong Kong Races were held, with an attendance of over 60,000 spectators and over U$7 million in prize money. Even those who don’t gamble will be swept up by the excitement and energy of watching the bright colors worn by the jockeys and horses as they gallop down the finish line to the cheers and yells of the spectators around them. Prepare to spend an entire day at the races if there is an international cup to be won.
From day to night there is always something happening in Hong Kong. A weekend trip can be turned into a full 48 hours of non-stop activity. Hong Kong can now be defined as the events capital of Asia.
Cathay Pacific flies to Hong Kong seven times a week, with 5-6 flights daily from Manila and one from Cebu.
The Pulse of Asia
Long known as being a shopping mecca as well as the home of gastronomic delights, Hong Kong is now being touted as the place to be for anything and everything. This world class city with an endless array of shops and restaurants, a bustling harbour and a perfect blend of Western and Eastern cultures is now opening even more doors to accommodate the tastes, interests and energies of world travelers and first time adventurers alike.
First on the list of sites to see is the chic boutique hotel apartments of JIA, meaning “home” in Mandarin. JIA is in a class all on its own, it is the first and only boutique hotel in Hong Kong and can boast of being the first hotel designed by French design master Philp Starck in Asia. It has 57 rooms, two of which are Penthouses all built within a 15 year old residential building in the bustling Causeway Bay area, a location known for its shopping and entertainment establishments. The hotel showcases Starcks sleek and modern designs, accented by very eclectic and eye catching furnishing and pieces of art. JIA offers hotel apartments that are fully equipped with tableware and cookware, top of the range audio visual equipment, including a flat-screen TV, a home theatre system and free broadband connectivity, all provided to make the guest feel “home away from home” JIA Hotel 1-5 Irving Street, Causeway Bay (852) 3196-9000 www.jiahongkong.com
Getting around Hong Kong is never a problem as there are a variety of ways to get from place to place. For a bit of nostalgia hop on a tram, historically, the first tram fleet consisted of 26 single-deck trams imported from England. These tramcars were replaced by double-deck tramcars in 1912, with permanent roofs added to the cars by 1923. The fleet now consists of 164 double-decker trams, that makes the only fully double-decker tram fleet in the world, with two open-balcony trams (#28, #128). There are stations located at the following (west to east): Kennedy Town, Whitty Street, Western Market, Prince's Building (Central, westbound), Landmark (Central, westbound), Worldwide House (Central, eastbound), Pacific Place (Admiralty), Happy Valley, Percival St. (Causeway Bay, eastbound), Sogo (Causeway Bay, westbound), North Point, Shau Kei Wan. Depots are located at Sai Wan Ho (between North Point and Shau Kei Wan), and Whitty Street. Take a trip down to the Western Market in Sheung Wan for a little shopping and a glimpse of old Hong Kong.
The Western Market, with its red brick walls and large granite arch over the main entrance, certainly stands out from the surrounding office buildings. The Western Market which was formerly a food market built in 1906 was transformed in 1989 when the Land Development Corporation was contracted to restore and revitalize this historical Edwardian building, it was officially re-opened in 1991. Aside from traditional Chinese goods, there are also silks and fabrics, from the subtle to the gaudy available for purchase. Don’t leave without venturing up to the 3rd floor of the building which exhibits innovative and new designers in art, design and fashion. Habitus, a store which specializes in funky and eye catching home and office decor, such as a submerged bust of Mao Tse Tung is also on the 3rd floor. Pick up the schedule of upcoming art and fashion design shows happening around Hong Kong, profiles of the different artists and their work are also included.
Town Gas Avenue in Tsim Sha Tsui provides fine dining in an ultra chic interactive setting. The restaurant which is fronted by a shop specializing in home appliances and kitchenware has both an indoor café and an outdoor area facing the Harbour. An open kitchen and several flat screen TVs show how your dish is being prepared, and expert chefs are ready and open to sharing their recipes and cooking tips and techniques. The duck breast and guava salad is a favorite item on the menu especially for those into fusion food and a well stocked cellar of wines makes the café an ideal place for a meal or a relaxing drink. It is best to make reservations for a table as it fills up quickly by couples and families especially on weekends and for dinner. Town Gas Avenue is open every day from 11am for lunch, afternoon tea and dinner up until 10pm. For a quick look at the shop, café, its locations (there is another branch in Causway Bay) and their menu, there is a website www.towngasavenue.com.
Stroll along the newly opened Avenue of the Stars located on the Tsim Sha Tsui Promenade. Opened in April 2004, the Avenue of the Stars was made to pay tribute to the movie industry of Hong Kong and those who have turned it into the Hollywood of the East. It features pavement plaques commemorating Hong Kong movie personalities past and present; milestones outlining the local film industry's 100-year history; a welcoming video; sculptures; and souvenir kiosks, all of which will enable visitors to see and learn more about their favourite Hong Kong movies and movie stars. In addition, special lighting makes the atmosphere even more enchanting at night. Celebrites such as Jackie Chan and Andy Lau have hand prints on the commemorative plates among others and the Hong Kong Film Academy has donated a magnificent sculpture at the entrance of the boardwalk. After 8pm visitors can also stay to watch A Symphony of Lights along the Hong Kong Harbor.
Since January 17th 2004, Hong Kong’s magnificent harbour-front skyline comes to life in a blaze of colour and sound each night for from 8pm to 8:18pm. A Symphony of Lights is a choreographed light and sound show combining special interactive light and musical effects which re-tell the story of Hong Kong by showcasing 18 key buildings along the waterfront of Victoria Harbour. This impressive spectacle has its own soundtrack and narrative translated into several languages, English on Mondays, Wednesdays and Fridays, Putonghua on Tuesdays and Thursdays and Cantonese on Sundays. Specators can also listen to the soundtrack via various local radio stations, or by dialing a special number on their mobile phone.
For a nightcap, there is Aqua Spirit, which is best described as an uber glam bar. Found on the 30th floor of the very posh One Peking Road building in Kowloon’s new fashion district. Its mezzanine level is an unobstructed panoramic view of Victoria Harbour on one side, and the Kowloon district on the other side. It is touted as being the hippest venue of Hong Kong, with its plush seats and lounge chairs for patrons to sit in and chill out. The Aquatini is one of its specialty house drinks made out of Ketel One, lychee liquid, chambord and gold leaves. Aqua Sprit is on the 30th floor of One Peking Road, Tsim Sha Tsui tel. (852) 3427-2288 www.aqua.com.hk.
Hong Kong has also been the home for world class horseracing events having entered into the world class international ranks over the last decade. First class facilities are available at The Happy Valley Racecourse which is in the heart of Hong Kong Island and the Sha Tin Racecourse which now hosts the very prestigious Hong Kong International Races. The Sha Tin Racecourse has been around since 1978 and has a seating capacity of over 80,000 with premiere services available to spectators. It holds the world record for the worlds largest diamond vision screen (8 meters in height and 70.4 meters in width) it is parallel to watching 4,500 21 inch TV sets at the same time. Sha Tin also possesses the first ever retractable parade ring, which has a total area of 13000 square meters and may also sit an addition 4,800 racing fans. In December 2004 the first Cathay Pacific International Hong Kong Races were held, with an attendance of over 60,000 spectators and over U$7 million in prize money. Even those who don’t gamble will be swept up by the excitement and energy of watching the bright colors worn by the jockeys and horses as they gallop down the finish line to the cheers and yells of the spectators around them. Prepare to spend an entire day at the races if there is an international cup to be won.
From day to night there is always something happening in Hong Kong. A weekend trip can be turned into a full 48 hours of non-stop activity. Hong Kong can now be defined as the events capital of Asia.
Cathay Pacific flies to Hong Kong seven times a week, with 5-6 flights daily from Manila and one from Cebu.
Batanes-Dios Mamajes
Published in Manual Magazine 2005
Dios Mamajes, Batanes
Easter break 2005, most of travel hungry Manila book months in advance to assure themselves of a well earned sojourn outside the Metropolis. So far, the promise of 24/7 partying and socializing in Boracay or the more relaxed “chill out” (literally) temperature of Baguio are the popular choices Having been to both locations in the past with frequency made me and my friends interested in something less commercial. An area less frequented, yet safe. So, if we wanted the best Easter trip, why not go straight to the top? And so to the top we went, the northernmost point in our archipelago, Batanes.
Batanes has gotten some attention in recent times. In fact, the Monday immediately following Easter Sunday, it headlined a local daily since as being eyed as a potential world heritage site. Before my trip, I did a little research, and all I got were comparisons in terms of landscape to Ireland and Scotland, without the excruciating sound of bagpipes. It also boasted of a 0% crime rate, and is certainly not the place for people to expect the amenities of a resort ( spa and 4 star and above) accommodations. It, like its landscape, is as natural as allowed to be, and so are what it has to offer. For those who are looking for something different to do, Batanes is well worth the trip at least from the months of Jan. to May due to it being the first area to be hit during typhoon season.
I have to be honest and say that if nature is not your thing then this may not be an ideal spot for you. If you want clean fresh air, if you want to cross the wide open seas, look at breathtaking views from unbelievable heights, then this a “must”. Be prepared to rough it, and it’s a good idea to be in shape as you will not fully experience Batanes’ beauty if you’re not ready to be immersed in it. Some things you should definitely bring, a camera, a windbreaker that can double as a raincoat, toiletries and extra supplies of anything you feel you cannot live without. As Batanes is not as “developed” commercially as other parts of the Philippines, sometimes buying a toothbrush is an adventure in itself. Oh, and don’t forget really comfortable hiking or rubber soled shoes.
Before I run off my list of what to do and how to get there, I ask that you remain conscientious and respectful of the simple ways of the locals (Ivatans) who are from Malay stock although some may also have descended from Taiwanese immigrants (Batanes is located closest to Formosa, Taiwan). Respect their environment and their way of life and enjoy the pleasant warmth of the people as they show you with great pride around their hometown. And you will soon learn a very useful phrase “Dios mamajes” (dyos mamahes) which means literally “God will give back to you” or colloquially used as “thank you”
I must thank Asia International Travel for making all the arrangements for us, from air transport to and from Batanes and land and water transport within Batanes and its surrounding islands. The number is 8124464 and you can contact: Marissa Araneta.
HOW TO GET THERE:
Asian Spirit flies directly to the island of Batan. Some opt to take a bus (like Autobus) to Laoag and charter a flight from Laoag to Batan.
WHERE TO STAY:
Shanedels. A house that is owned by Shane and Del(smile). It is a house converted to a hostel. No private bathrooms and no hot water, but you can purchase a portable heater from any department store to bring along. The couple is very pleasant and extremely helpful and allowed us (we were 6) the whole of the second floor and its bathroom which worked out pretty well. Call Dely 09204470737
If you want more privacy and beautiful views of the sea, you may want to check out Batanes Resort. Private cottages with their own bathrooms and hot water. The exteriors are charming as they are made from local and natural materials.
WHAT TO DO:
Depending on the no. of days you’re going to spending it would be worthwhile to check out the following places while in the Batan side:
Viewing Deck at Mahatao- A great first glimpse of the many breathtaking views as the water meets with the earth all throughout Batanes
Marlboro Country- heard time and time again as the backdrop of that famous a la “Wuthering Heights” Filipino movie. Just go see it for all its worth, and you will be thinking..my kingdom for a horse just to gallop across the plains.
Song Song Ruins- A ‘ghost town’ with ruins of stone houses left after a tsunami hit this area back in the 1950s. Try and ignore the basketball court (wish that was destroyed instead)
Uyugan Church (which was built in 1857)-For some reason reminded me of something you would have seen in Mexico.
San Jose Church at Ivana-this is the only church that was not built in the Spanish style. Offers a magnificent view of the sea as it fronts the Ivana Seaport (or Radiwan Port). Try and take a look at the original ruins at the back, which have tree roots growing out of them.
Old Loran Station-formerly a site of the US Coastguard. Aside from the decaying façade which makes good photo background material, there are wonderful views of the surrounding mountains and coastline
Fundacion Pacita du Tukon- the former residence of famed artist Pacita Abad (who was from Batanes) which has now been turned into a museum.
Fishing village at Diura which proudly boasts of a fountain or “spring of youth” (goodbye Vicki Belo) and a living cave full of crystal and limestone formations known as.. Crystal Cave.
Mt. Iraya, this is a dormant volcano which is any hikers dream come true. Whether its your first time to climb or you’ve been doing it all your life, the trail offers many rest stops where one may choose to relax as others continue on. It is recommended to start the climb very early in the morning to be able to have lunch at the peak and climb down before dark.
As you can see, this is a very brief rundown of things to do, trust me, there is much much more for the very adventurous to see. I would highly recommend a day trip to the island of Sabtang. There is adequate information available on the internet if you plan to make your next trip a Batanes one. The only downside was I wasn’t too impressed with the local cuisine but I did discover the gastronomic delights of freshly grilled “dorado” ( a non-mammalian dolphin) and their local version of “gabi” which was delicious when made into a salad. The name escapes me, but I can assure that any of the warm and uber helpful Ivatans will gladly tell you and serve it to you once you land on their beautiful shores.
Cebu Outskirt Outburst
Published in Lifestyle Asia Travel Magazine 2005
Day Trip Cebu
Roadtrip. The idea can be romantic for some, adventurous for others and a hostile NO WAY! for those who prefer to travel from one place to the other with a defined destination and itinerary. I have been an avid traveler for as long as I can remember, and no matter the mode of transport, as long as it can accommodate my body, a backpack, my camera and munchies I’m good to go. I am not considered an “extremist” of any sort, so I have yet to try a major off road jaunt, but I do like going to sights and scenes undiscovered or overrun by commercialism as I feel, there is always a way to look at something in an unequaled, uncopied way. So, when an invite to go see what’s around by hopping into a car, armed with a map and a good driver ( although control obsessed, when it comes to driving, I prefer the cushy shot gun position) I make sure that my batteries for my Nikon are charged and that I have something to record my notes on. Weapons of choice is a black moleskin sketchpad and a pencil.
Here’s the thing, as I mentioned previously, a roadtrip does evoke several reactions depending on your target audience, and someone very wise told me, that if you want someone to come back for more…the first experience must always be pleasant. So, here I go, with a roadtrip itinerary for newbies…those who want the “luxury” of getting away on a mini-break with the potential “roughness” of the unpredictable and the bragging rights that somehow (although the tale must be somewhat edited) they went off the beaten path.
Why Cebu? First and foremost, Cebu is the 2nd largest metropolitan city in the Philippines. Translation if your group or companion whom you’ve convinced to fly out with you decide to wimp out, they can always find a five star accommodation and the same amenities they would find in Metro Manila within reach in the Queen City of the South.. You have to FLY out to get to Cebu, so it certainly qualifies as an OUT OF TOWN road trip. As long as hardcore roatrippers don’t ask for too many details, they will certainly be impressed by the idea that you had to travel a significant distance for said excursion. Another advantage of doing a road trip in Cebu is the availability of comfortable vehicles to sit a rather fussy rear end ( and the person its attached to) in. You can rent a car, or hire a car and a driver…if you don’t want to do the actual driving. I was lucky enough to be invited by someone who had purchased an imported Land Cruiser Prado, it was complete with sun roof, and in my opinion the best feature a built in cooler in between the two front seats! It certainly was the perfect size for two large bottles of mineral water and as many other less healthy varieties of liquid replenishment available in the market.
An appropriate time to start off discovering the outskirts of Cebu would be very early in the morning and on a weekend. Sunday was the day of choice for a whole day getaway. Cebu, having the charms of a cosmopolitan city is also a victim of its traffic and jams, so a Sunday while people are still sleeping in from a Saturday night out is perfect.
For those early birds, you can leave as early as 6am to catch the rising sun, and for those who would like some time to actually wake up and be coherent, 8am is also good. As this is written with the spirit of fun, and LOTS of excuses to turn back or not proceed forward, I have included as many rest stops as possible and the most scenic for endless photo taking and video opportunities. One thing I will stress is that no matter if you’re on the road, off the road, on-foot, traveling leisurely or traveling for the adrenaline rush of adventure sports, it’s always good karma to respect your environment, its inhabitants and of course the people around you. There is a saying that goes:
Leave nothing but footprints
Take nothing but pictures
Kill nothing but time
Keep nothing but memories.
With this in mind, the roadtrip begins.
8am-Getting ready to leave your hotel or resort of choice, we will assume that by this time you are in the city center and not in the island of Mactan which will probably incur 20 mins more travel time (without traffic). First stop is BIG BUCKS COFFEE, a 24 hour (I just love anything open 24 hours) coffee shop that looks suspiciously similar to a world renowned Seattle originated coffee shop chain. There is a great selection of teas, coffee, and other beverages, plus sandwiches and pastries ( I like their veggie sandwich) that you can take with you on your trip, if you’re the type who doesn’t get carsick and can eat in the car. There are about 3 flat screen tvs tuned into CNN so if you’re not into reading the daily rag ( they can give you nasty print ink stains) you can catch a little news before heading out. Direction chosen for this day is the South West of Cebu..a good drive along the coast.
830am By this time or even earlier, you have been traveling on the very scenic SRP or South Reclamation Project. This area is the future address of the Department of Tourism. It is an extremely well paved spacious highway that allows really good views of the sea to the left, and the Central Business District to the right. A great photo opportunity along here would be the old and abandoned Casa de la Maritima. Not too sure if you can actually pull over and get down, but it’s worth a shot ( literally). Am not an expert on architecture, but the leftover structure is very pretty, the filmmaker in my head whispers “great place to shoot a film”. Cebu has benefited from renovations on its roads and highways for the last six years under the leadership of its Governor, Gwen Garcia.
( Whose name sounds disturbingly similar to a Viva Hot Babe)
9am After about 30km of commenting on the smoothness of the road ( I have yet to encounter one so smooth besides the Skyway in Metro Manila) you can stop for breakfast and a rest at Pulchra, a five star resort located in San Isidro, San Fernando. Don’t drive too fast or else you will miss the sign. I highly recommend the fil. Breakfast as the boneless bangus is not served the way it usually is..the whole fish laid out in front of you, but in small very cut-table portions. The entire resort seems to be connected by a pool, and in fact, since the beach is nothing special in my opinion, a guest should opt for a room that has its own private pool. If one hour on the road has already tired you out, it would be a good idea to spend the next couple of hours relaxing in Pulchra, by the main pool or perhaps treat yourself to an early morning massage.
1130 After you leave the long driveway of Pulchra, within 20 mins you should hit the town Carcar-or as I have nicknamed it Chicharon Pitstop. When you get to the main square you can do a little sightseeing and visit the Church, take photos of the façade of the emergency hospital and the school of St. Catherine. Again, I know nothing about architecture but I’m pretty sure they were constructed under Spanish influence. As I mentioned earlier, this is the best place to buy some snacks for your road trip, there are chicharon vendors a plenty, and for those followers of Islam or strict vegetarians, you can always purchase other Cebu like treats such as ampao or bocayo. I never leave a pitstop without nourishment..just in case. After the photo snapping and the snacking, continue south.
12pm Although the roads narrow slightly as you pass through the towns of Barili, Dumanjug, they remain pot hole and crack free. In other words, if you’re not too interested in seeing what’s outside the window and have finished an entire bag of chicharon, it’s a perfect time to take quick catnap before you reach
1pm Moalboal offers several resorts along its white beach where you can stop for lunch. There is the Asian Belgian Resort, The Dolphin House, and the place where GMA stayed when she did a diving trip, Club Serena. My suggestion is, if you dive, this is the best place for a quick one. If the rest of your party doesn’t dive, they can have lunch, tan and swim.
3pm Kawasan Falls, Badian. You know you’re going the right way as you continue to head down south when you spot the signage KAWASAN FALLS on the left side of the street at the entrance of Matutinao Park right after a church. These falls are a no-miss and it’s best to see them while the sun is still high up in the sky. I had heard about these falls prior to my road trip and was not expecting much since I thought..falls, are falls. It’s about a 30 min. walk from where you park your car ( P 50 parking fee!!-Makati prices!) to the first set of falls. The walk is a journey into itself as the pathway is lush with foliage and a continous running stream. I exaggerate a little bit when I say it reminded me to a certain degree of the pathway from Elron..to wherever the Hobbit and the rest of his troupe had to go to save…never mind, I’m sure you get my drift. The falls are certainly worth the walk, and there are two bridges one can cross to get there. I would highly suggest a swim and a little raft trip towards the falls, the water is clean and you can see right through to the bottom. The rest stop here is called Wily’s Place and you can have a snack and a drink before and after your swim there is a P10 entrance fee per head. The water feels invigorating and there is some kind of elemental magic in the air being so close to nature. Just try and turn a blind eye to the monoblock chairs and plastic table covers at the restaurant. The entire setting is very picturesque and if you are a frustrated botanist or would like to pretend you have a natural green thumb, you will appreciate the wide variety of tropical plants that have sprouted all over the area.
6pm-At this point, there are two options. The first is to continue down south and do the whole tip of the island and head home, or, the second, which is just to head back home. Perfect time to catch the setting sun on the drive back. On the way, if you get hungry and have already finished the chicharon and other snack previously purchased, there are several roadside bakeshops that offer a variety of pastries. One favorite that is reminiscent of my childhood at least is a kind of bread that is filled with butter and sugar. Not the most calorie or diabetic friendly snack but delicious all the same. Without traffic and any bathroom stopovers, the drive should take around 8pm, just in time for dinner in any of the establishments found in the city center. I prefer the ambiance of The Tinder Box located in Banilad. Good place to grab a good glass of wine, deli like fare, and for others, to light up a cigar.
10pm- A good after dinner wrap up and a perfect way to end a road trip is a trip to Meddah spa which is at The Crossroads, a row of restaurants, clubs and other nightspots right beside The Tinder Box. The beauty of Meddah is that it’s open til quite late and is very peaceful and quiet once inside. You can opt for foot reflexology or an overall body shiatsu massage.
After an hour or so of bliss, you can head back to your hotel room and reminisce on the trip. In my case, I went through the various photos I took felt tranquil and relaxed after my massage to go into deep sleep. Ready again, perhaps for another roadtrip the next morning. I hope your first trip and the subsequent ones you take will always be pleasant.
Information: Pulchra Resort, San Isidro, San Fernando. + 63 (32) 2320823 to 25 email:info@pulchraresorts.com for room rates and types visit www.pulchraresorts.com
Meddah Spa Unit R&S Crossroads, Banilad Mon.-Sun. 11pm final booking at 10pm tel. + 63 (32) 2342080 or 234 2083
Club Serena Resort, Basdaku, Moalboal Telefax +63 32 232 5907
Mobile +63 920 902 8888 or www.clubserenaresort.com
Pattaya and Rayong
Published in What's On and Expat Newspaper 2006
A Non Stop Exotic Excursion in Thailand
By Katrina A. Holigores
A sleepless outskirt with all the trimmings is probably the most apt description of my recent visit to Pattaya and Rayong in Thailand. Pattaya, which is a 2 ½ hour drive southeast of Bangkok was described by one of my travelmates as “a typical beach town” and I couldn’t agree more. A skip away from the sand and surf lay an entire row of bars, restaurants, and shopping areas where the dress code seemed dedicated to flip flops and colorfully printed shirts, skirts and in some cases shorts. Wear your hair down, up or in tight little braids, as long as you could kick back, dance and drink all night, it didn’t matter. Suffice to say that Pattaya mornings had a ghost like feel whereas the energy changed to full blast highs and colors as soon as the sun started it’s descent.
For those who are more day-oriented and would like a more family type excursion, there are still many things to do in and nearby Pattaya. Our group found ourselves first at the Sri Racha Tiger and Crocodile Zoo) where the prevalent message around the area was one of “harmony”. How so? Imagine a 5 foot sow being surrogate mother to a couple of baby tiger cubs, or, you could also peer into a glass window to view an almost full grown tiger asleep alongside a pair of golden retrievers and a pig. “Yes” the zoo seems to say, if they can do it (live and sleep peacefully together) why can’t the rest of the word do the same? The Zoo also offers performances involving the tigers and a rather nerve racking show between humans and crocodiles. If that wasn’t nerve wracking enough, the zoo’s restaurant offers exotic cuisine such as crocodile meat ( in a soup or grilled) and deep fried scorpions.
If animals and exotic cuisine are far from you ideals of a holiday, then you can take a trip down to the Nong Nooch Tropical Garden that is a sprawling tribute to Thai flora (and some fauna). Walk around this recreational park to view the colorful flowers and take a tram to the more even more picturesque gardens or segregated areas with specific types of plants. There is also a cultural show with dancing and music and a very entertaining elephant show, which is a delight for both young and old. I don’t think I’ve ever felt more intimidated watching an elephant gracefully paint a picture better than I ever could!
In terms of dining and accommodation there are plenty to choose from, but it would be best to book ahead as during the weekend and holidays many flock to Pattaya for a quick getaway. There is the Montien Hotel in Pattaya and its neighbour, the very eclectic Hard Rock Hotel. The Hard Rock Hotel is a family favorite boasting of themed rooms, a lobby showcasing a variety of music memorabilia and their infinity pool plays hotspot for their very popular and well attended foam parties.
The newly opened Mantra restaurant was our dining choice one evening and we were slightly baffled with the seemingly endless choices in their menu. Both Western and Eastern favorites were available, and it gave a new meaning to the word fusion cuisine. Their homemade four-variety bread loaf is such a favorite that some patrons actually order some to take home (us included). There is also Sunday brunch for those who actually want to wake up when the sun is still up but Mantra’s operating hours during the week start from 6pm onwards, and many flock to the bar to try some original concoctions before heading out to the beach and the side street attractions.
There are two spectacles (in every sense) that I do have to write about, and they are of two highly diversified genres that I would highly recommend them to anyone visiting Pattaya. The first being the nightly musical extravaganza held at the Tiffany’s Show in Pattaya. (Which funnily enough, doubles as a shooting range during the day). The costumes, the music, the choreography are all typical of a well planned cabaret, with the single exception that all of it’s female performers are, or better put were men. Yes, Tiffany’s proudly billets itself as “The Original Transvestite Cabaret Show” and is now celebrating it’s 30th anniversary. They also have a Miss Tiffany Universe Pageant and the winner of what is self labeled women of “the second category” goes on to represent Thailand in the Miss Queen of the Universe Pageant in the US. So far, they have taken the crown three times, and when you see the show, you will not wonder why. In fact, there was a collective giggle between me and my female companions that the entire show made us feel rather inadequately gifted as women.
The second spectacle which was viewed on a very sunny bright morning was the colossal Sanctuary of Truth monument located along the shore of Laem Ratchawet in North Pattaya. This massive structure which after 25 years has still not been completed, rises to the heaven and is completely carved out of wood. Fine details frame the faces of the various deities and symbols that are depicted in Eastern religious. It’s founder, the late Mr. Lek Wiriyaphan had the vision that this would represent the way human civilization has been achieved and nurtured through philosophical truth. If the Tiffany’s show the night before was humbling in terms of the almost physical perfection of the ex-men performers, the immense size and painstaking labor it took ( and is still taking) to finish the Sanctuary of Truth is incredibly humbling. One can picture this place as ideal for worship, reflection and illumination. Despite the noise and the activity still ongoing the whole ambiance is still one of peace and rest, and I do hope to come back when the interiors (although they look finished to me) are said to be 100% done.
Even if Pattaya still had many sights and scenes to be uncovered, we were taken for a day trip to nearby proving Rayong to get a taste of fresh fruits at the Supattra Land Fruit Orchard. For around 200 baht guests can eat as much fruit as they want within the premises ( about 20 fruit types although availability depends on the season). A tram took us around the grounds and one of my enthusiastic group mates quickly learned how to identify the different fruit trees and by the end of the tour was able to out shout our tour guide in identifying them. During the tour we stopped twice to sample freshly cut slices of durian, dragon fruit, pineapple, papaya and some never heard of fruits such as the red almost bony shelled Zalacca Walachiana (which I quite liked for it’s sweet sour taste and texture) and the green coated Spondias Etherea ( a fruit that reminded everyone of guava). Needless to say thoughts of lunch quickly disappeared as the fruits kept coming and some more fruits were purchased at the on-site fruit market before we left for lunch.
Lunch was at the very impressive Tamnanpar Forest Restaurant. The whole area was lavishly covered by forest greens and trees and surrounded by waterfalls, bridges and ponds full of swans, ducks and fish. There was a cool breeze coming in from every angle of the open restaurant as we feasted on deep fried sea bass, curries, and other Thai cuisine. It was a very welcome respite from the typical Thailand heat, and I may be speaking only for myself but the sight of the water being all around was quite invigorating and more than made up for the rather intense pace we kept at for the entire trip.
Original perceptions of Thailand being a shopping and dining mecca are certainly not dispelled by my recent trip to Pattaya and Rayong, rather, the discovery of more things to do ( outside of indulging in fashion and food) were quite a revelation. So if you decide to go and visit the country that has labeled itself “Happiness on Earth” then add these two provinces to your sightseeing list, and do give my love to Tiffany’s showgirls.
SIDEBAR CONTENT:
Interested visitors may call up the Tourism Authority of Thailand at telefax (632) 9111660 or email tat_mnl@pacific.net.ph there is also a website you can visit: tourismthailand.org
Most of the attractions above are open on a daily basis although for some, it would be best to find out ahead what time the show times are. The elephant show for example at Nong Nooch is extremely popular and crowds normally rush in to get a good seat. For the restaurants it is safe to note that if you are rather sensitive to spice, you may ( and should) ask the server to make the dishes milder, depending on your tolerance.
Return to Iloilo
Published in What's On and Expat 2007
Iloilo
House-hopping in Iloilo
Text and photos by Katrina A. Holigores
Spatially challenged as I am, it’s always reassuring to know that when planning a trip, an organized itinerary of events awaits you at your destination, even if it’s one you’ve been to in the past. I had promised to pay a visit to Iloilo and as I had already scheduled a business trip in Cebu, a trip further down south seemed to float up with perfect timing. I scheduled a four day jaunt during the intensely hot month of April and was promised tours, good food and great company, before I even got on the plane it seemed my schedule was already chockfull of day to day activity.
There was one glitch, I had scheduled my trip on a weekend when a drug conference was slated to begin and finding a hotel was proving to be as difficult as the sun was merciless in its heat. Thankfully, after a string of misses, I was booked in two hotels. The first night I would spend at the newly opened Westown Hotel situated in the amusingly named Smallville area, and the consecutive nights would be at old reliable Days Hotel in the center of town. Smallville intrigued me, if not for the faint hope that Tom Weiling would be in its midst but because it was the “in” hotspot for bars and restaurants. I was wisely advised to book a room toward the back of the hotel rather than the front or be subject to loud music and activity throughout the night.
Lesson learned
Landing in the Iloilo airport was rather painless although the minute I stepped on the tarmac I can only blame the searing heat for impairing my judgement for what occurred within the next twenty minutes. I suppose in my rush to jump into an air-conditioned taxi and head straight to my hotel, I paid no attention to the taxi line and headed straight toward the first taxi driver who waved at me. Perhaps, ( and I will do some finger pointing again) it was the ominous and shocking sight of a SM department store on my way to the airport that blinded me to the fact that the driver had not started his meter. Again, upon arriving in Smallville which was probably at most a fifteen minute ride from the airport I was too distracted to realize that the driver had charged me by almost triple the fare! Note to self, and other travelers, be patient, line up for a taxi (if there is no one to pick you up) and always insist on the meter being used.
The hotel was pleasant and I was given a room at the back of the hotel which proved to be very quiet and I was able to nap for a couple of hours to recharge my own batteries and to prepare me for what had been laid out for me to do. First up, dinner at the home of Iloilo’s host with the most, Zaffy Ledesma. Zaffy, who also was the director for the Museo Ilolilo was someone I had the great pleasure of meeting on my very first trip to Iloilo more than six years ago. He had, during that time, proven too generous a host, spoiling me with stories of his beloved city, educating me with historical facts and stuffing my face with food so good, it made me forget all else. It’s good to know that some things never change. At his beautiful home, which seemed to be as ageless and full of life, quirks and humor as he was, other guests and I were treated to amazing fare. Zaffy’s cousin, Maridel Padilla Uygongco, served us up a storm and I believe, three exquisite crabs in coconut milk after, I finally came up for breath. During the course of the dinner, I was reminded that the next day would entail a tour of ancestral homes of Iloilo’s oldest and most illustrious families (that were not open to the public) and a return to Molo, where my great grandfather had been born. I was doubly glad that being spatially challenged I couldn’t figure out right then and there the locations of the houses but was looking forward to the adventure ahead.
Backing up and Looking Forward
The first house on the agenda was the Avancena Home located in the town of Arevalo. Zaffy picked me up bright and early and gave me a brief history of this house that was now managed by Luth Camina, a descendant of its first owner, Don Fernando Avancena. The house, originally built in 1860, retained most of its original structure and its interiors had never been painted. The gleaming wood and the well maintained furniture were a delight to see, and the overall energy of the house showed that it was well loved, even if there were no longer people who resided there as the ground floor was now used as a training center and school for caregivers. At least I thought, there were people who came in and out of the house and took care of it. On the grounds of the Avancena property, the owners had also built a small house called The Home Management Center for Mother Teresa Learning Center. This charming structure incorporated fragments from old houses with its more modern design. According to the manager it was used as a venue to train men and women in the basics of housekeeping, table setting and serving to aid them in securing domestic employment.
Second on the list was the home of the Pison family in Molo, and we were warmly greeted by Kevin Pison Piamonte, grandson of the original owner of the house. Kevin showed us the façade of the house, which he jokingly declared to be “not to his taste” as he had two wily uncles who brought it upon themselves to recreate the original façade to look like the old restored houses in Vigan, (to not very favorable effect in Kevin’s opinion). The interior of the house had retained its elegance with its dark wooden floors and butterfly motifs on the windows. What was even more interesting was a Rizal motif located on the second floor, a very patriotic touch or probably just a “nationalistic fetish” laughed Kevin. The Pison house celebrated its 100th birthday in April.
As we were already in Molo, I had to pass by the Molo Church for some photo opportunities and as a silent homage to my great grandfather ( who I never met). That visit was brief as we had to head off to Jaro for the last house on my itinerary. We met up with Estella Montinola Jaen, at her home the Rodrigo Montinola house which was built in 1927. Estela, who seemed to have the vim and vigor of a woman half her age kept us entertained with stories and photos from the past as she showed as around her home. It was obvious that she liked to keep busy and kept pointing out pieces of furniture and décor that had been with her family for many years. She even gave us two boxes of polvorn as we left even if we had taken up her time for almost two hours!
Heading home
As far as conclusions can be drawn, I have this to say, although I am no expert on human behaviour or psychology, Ilonggos in general do feel a deep connection to their province and so far, seem to be able to resist the desire to become like Manila. I have often observed in other provinces, that the goal is to compete or become at par with the country’s capital, when each and every province should build and work on what makes it unique. Iloilo as far as I’m concerned is a good example of a place that knows its identity and hopefully, through some ongoing projects in terms of culture, heritage and as Zaffy affectionately calls it “collective pride” its identity becomes known to the rest of the country. I look forward to my next trip back, to get a glimpse of the past and those who still incorporate it in their present.
SIDEBAR:
IloIlo is also a good place for fresh seafood and for sweet treats. Biscocho Haus has a wide variety of delicacies that can be taken home, the most famous of which is it’s biscocho and its butterscotch.
Museo Iloilo is a good place to get a compressed glimpse of Iloilos history, its people and its native goods.
The new spa at the Days Hotel is a definite must try and has rates that are very reasonable especially for spa goers who are used to Manila prices.
Splendid in Tagaytay
Published in What's On and Expat Newspaper 2007
Splendido in Tagaytay
Nothing beats a fun-filled sojourn that doesn’t require too much planning or packing. For cooler climes and a short drive away from the traffic-filled streets of Metro Manila, Tagaytay has come forth as a destination for the last minute traveler, food lover, and golfer. The awesome views of the Taal Volcano and lake are Tagaytay’s best-sellers and a myriad of different establishments vie to offer the best ambiance to go along with the splendid backdrop. Splendid indeed was the first site of the volcano and lake when I entered into the grounds of The Splendido Residential Golf and Country Club that started start way up and seemed to extend endlessly down displaying the extensive 250 hectare property.
The golf course, fully operational and designed by Greg Norman occupies about 65 hectares of development and comes with two signature holes. Hole no. 2 which requires a golfer to drive his or her ball at least a 180 yards across a ravine and Hole no. 8 which also requires the ball to sail over the ravine (on the opposite side) and has the most scenic view. The fact that Splendido is a nature’s reserve as many part of it are still undeveloped welcomes visitors with a variety of birds that alight on the green or fly overhead in the trees. Keeping inline with Jack Nicklaus preference for “rustic” or better explained “as close to nature” courses, a view from above actually gives one the feeling of playing in the wild, surrounded by wild grass ( taller than a human being) with a lake in the middle to make the course even more challenging and a great training ground for both the serious and not so serious golfer.
Developed by the JAKA Investment Corporation, its founder, Senator Juan Ponce Enrile wanted the 18 hole course to be a world-class team champion course, with an important factor, it had to be walk-able. “If you had seen this when we started about 10 years ago” shares Katrina Ponce Enrile, the senator’s daughter and now President and CEO of JAKA Investment Corporation “ it would have shocked you, the property was actually ‘raised up’ about 60 meters, making it the second biggest earth moving jobs in Asia at that time.” Presently, golfers can choose to use a golf cart or can actually walk the course with their caddies from beginning to end, no remains aside from the ravine between Hole no. 2 and 8 are proof of how “high” they land had come.
Food tripping at its finest
A trip to Tagaytay would not be complete without some gastronomic indulgence and now there are two options available on the grounds of Splendido. Within the walls of its open air, Spanish style clubhouse is Ladera, meaning “hill” (as the clubhouse sits on a hill) serves breakfast as early as 6am and a variety of other dishes and desserts until 9pm. Another restaurant, La Esquina meaning “the corner” which is enclosed and air-conditioned at the (you guessed it) corner of the clubhouse serves Spanish food. Consultant chef Ed Quimson was present during this particular trip and guests gladly sampled some experimental concoctions such as a very delectable pizza with white chocolate and mango toppings! Chef Heny Sison also acts as a consultant for both restaurants and her desserts are on display at Ladera, tempting patrons as they enter the veranda and also when they leave.
Lunch was held that day in La Esquina and during an interview with resident chef Booj Supe gave as an overview of what to expect on the table that day. “The menu is changed on a quarterly basis” said the chef. “We keep some favorites and just add a little variety and continue expand and experiment with traditional dishes and give them a signature twist”. When it was time to eat, diners couldn’t help but dig in to typical pica-pica fare such as gambas but this time not just with garlic but with an extremely rich and mouthwatering crab fat sauce. The paella negra was moist, yet light and an adobo with green mango and cheese filled “lumpia” was certainly eaten up with gusto. Specialites also include the pollo iberico, croquettes and salpicado. Spanish served up at its best especially since the clubhouse was built in the Spanish style. A signature drink, called the Katrina drink was also served and although certainly not a lightweight in alcohol, it went perfectly with the food. Almost like a sangria with a bigger punch.
Looking around the interiors, one can admire the attention to detail. Most of the materials used were imported, such as the floor tiles and materials used to build the water fountain located at the entrance of the clubhouse. The foreign firm of Steven Leach were tasked to do the inside design while architecture was managed by Arch. Payumo and Associates. Katrina and her team also specially flew in flatware and glassware from various trips abroad, but the clubhouse is also peppered with eye catching decor accessories designed by local artist Milo Naval of Movement 8. Aside from having closely supervised the construction of Splendido, Katrina also keeps abreast with the latest trends in the world of food. “We just concluded an almost 2 week culinary excursion to Spain and Italy” confides Katrina, “we brought in different kinds of hams, oils, cheeses and other delicacies to serve in the restaurants.” Chef Ed Quimson is quick to add “Some of the most experimental and flavorful combinations come from the places we visited in Europe and this is a great thing to add to the cuisine we serve here!”
Much More to Come
There are also major plans in the future to further add infrastructure to Splendido as 90 hectares is dedicated to residential plots divided in cuts of about 280-350 square meters each (although some are bigger) and 55% of the lots have been sold. “Splendido affords many great views” states Sonny Marin. VP for Corporate Planning of JAKA, ‘The lots are situated in such a way that a house can have a Taal Lake view, or a golf course view, and some will have both views and since the land is elevated, one house cannot block the other, we have strict guidelines on that.” There are also plans in the near future to build a country club that will have basketball, badminton and tennis courts, a bowling alley, and game rooms for pingpong and billards. “It is now in its design stage” says Katrina, “Since we also know that we are going to start having a community here there are also plans to build a town center, fashioned after Telakepake in Sedona, California. It will be outdoors, 2 storey colorful little houses that will be connected by pathways and archways for residents and other guests to enjoy.”
Eventually, due to the expanse of land and the carefully mapped out plans for further infrastructure and facilities one can truly imagine a community booming and reveling in the seemingly endless breeze in Tagaytay. “By 2010 the area of Tagaytay and Batangas is already earmarked for major tourism” announces Katrina, “It is definitely a growing market it being 4 degrees cooler than Metro Manila making it an ideal getaway destination because you’re ‘far away’ yet not ‘far away’ due to it being a 2 hour drive from the city.” With all these advantages, Tagaytay is indeed heading for some rather splendid times.
Side bar:
The Splendido Taal Residential Golf and Country Club is open for member and non-member guests to use and dine in the current facilities. For general information contact the General Manager, Mr. Mike Cedo at (02) 529-8213 local 221. To inquire about the lots that are still for sale contact Mr. Perry Lukban VP of Property Sales for Property Group at (02) 893-5531 local 357.
For those who wish to stay in Tagaytay overnight, Splendido has a tie up with Taal Vista Hotel.
Helpful Travel Tips:
What to bring on a day out to Tagaytay:
1. Sunblock
2. Sweater or jacket (in the evening it can get quite chilly and windy)
3. Camera (for a lot of picturesque sites)
4. If you have kids bring them an extra set of clothes
5. Golf set
Plan ahead: Weekends and holidays tend to make the trip to Tagaytay traffic-filled, try to avoid leaving during rush hour. Splendido Taal is only 69 kilometers (42.86 miles) from Manila or 90 minutes from Makati City. It is 13 kilometers (8 miles) from the Tagaytay Rotunda and 3 kilometers (1.86 miles) from the Tagaytay-Alfonso boundary. There are two main routes to the site: via the South Superhighway or the Coastal Road.
On the Rocks
Published in What's On and Expat 2007
Corregidor
It was probably back in the late 90’s when I first heard someone gush about a recent sojourn to the island of Correigidor. Two of my friends, visiting from Madrid had spent a day on “the rock” as it amusingly nicknamed and just couldn’t stop talking about it. In fact, they printed out the photos the same day just to show their friends back home. Having never traveled there, and being Filipino, I must have turned five shades of red when asked, “How come you’ve never been?” Well, better late than never, almost 10 years have passed and after some last minute planning, I found myself being handed my day pass ticket to Corregidor by an over generous companion. The operator of choice was Sun Cruises Incorporated which had the most comprehensive website when I surfed the Internet for information and it also promised a whole new experience. I thought to myself, “well if I’ve never been there, it is certainly going to be new” and the energetically jumping youths on the brochure were a little over the top but I decided not to pass judgment and found myself being led to the dock at the CCP Bay Terminal. I have to admit, we Filipinos love paper, I was handed a ticket for the boat to go to Corregidor, a lunch ticket, a tour ticket and another ticket to go back to Manila. Honestly, at that hour in the morning if I were even just a little bit sleepier those tickets would have flown away with the Manila Bay wind.
Boarding time was scheduled for 715am but I’m pretty sure we departed at around 830am, the ride to the island was pleasant and smooth and I was lucky enough to be seated by the window. While onboard one of the designated tour guides amused passengers with stories of Corregidor, and what to expect one we arrived. There was also an assignment of the tour trams for English speaking, Japanese speaking and student groups. In about an hour, I could already see the island and took a deep breath and braced myself for the heat of the sun that was hiding temporarily behind an overcast veil. As luck would have it, the very first tram that caught my eye had on it possibly (and no exaggeration) the best local tour guide bar none. Pablito, as he called himself, was a veteran of the Corregidor experience, having been at the helm of the tram showing around no less than heads of state from the Philippines and even the US. He knew what he was talking about, and his dry wit was refreshing despite the heat.
As a quick background, Corregidor was the site of one of the “last stands” during World War II. The island acted as final defense of the Philippines from the invading Japanese forces in 1942 as it had a network of tunnels and a formidable array of defensive armament, along with the fortifications across the entrance to Manila Bay. (the island partially blocked the entrance) Unfortunately, even if the island was host to the Allied Forces for General Mac Arthur and was the temporary location for the commonwealth under President Manuel Quezon, it still fell into the hands of the Japanese on May 6 of that year. It was also here where the radio station, USAFFE (United States Army Forces in the Far East) broadcasted the famous announcement of the fall of Bataan. Corregidor is tadpole-shaped and aerial shots show lush green forests and deep blue waters surrounding it.
The green forests were indeed abundant as we went up the winding roads to see the sites. The ruins of war were all around and yet, recent “improvements” of some of them, had left them (in my opinion) less majestic. Reminiscent of the temples of Angkor Wat, some ruins had trees and their roots wrapped around them, but due to these said “improvements” the trees had been cut down, in order to make the ruins look more realistic, or as our guide sarcastically explained “like they looked right after the war”. Sad, I thought, but hopefully the rest of the ruins would have been spared this short sightedness.
I was not disappointed because the rest of the trip held within it a certain romance, one that I would like to think is a leftover from the spirit of the soldiers. Before you start pulling the garlic and the holy water out I’m talking about the sense of duty and fierce dedication that sustained the soldiers during the last desperate days on the island. There is a sense of noble, even proud defiance all around Corregidor that one can pick up on with ease. The Mile Long Barracks, which was my favorite remnant of the Battle of Corregidor seemed to stretch languorously on and on into the distance. I would have liked to walk and take photos of it from end to end, but there was still so much to see. The walk around the old cinema ( used by the soldiers for R&R) and the Pacific War Memorial were almost picture perfect. The museum was simple and well organized, what I particularly liked was a water “rack” outside of it. One could place his or her bottle of water there while exploring the museum, many chose to take their photos using the very colorful mural of Corregidor as a background.
Lunch was served at one of the hotels on the island and in under an hour we were off to the Malinta Tunnel for a light and sound show. The show chronicled the events that went on leading up to the surrender of Corregidor to the Japanese. The rest of the day was spent with stops at the numerous armaments or batteries that were scattered over the island. They all had it seemed a new coat of paint and were very shiny in the hot sun, and made interesting props for other tourists as they clambered over them and posed for even more photos. By around 2pm though, the tour was over, and I felt a little disappointed because I thought it was way too short. There were those who opted to stay overnight, so those who had gotten a day pass were whisked back to the boat waiting on the docks. Getting the same seat back I asked my companion if the trip could have been extended, and was told that there is a later departure schedule but it is dependent on weather condition and the vessel’s availability. I made a mental note, as we drifted away from “The Rock” that I would, as General Macarthur had, return.
Sidebar:
Sun Cruises Incorporated has Guided Island Tour inclusive of Lunch on a daily basis. There are also special tours and excursions that can be planned in advance. The Nature Tour and Adventure Package is becoming increasingly popular with an
“Explore the Rock “ challenge wherein survivor type games may be arranged for group visitors. For more information visit www.corregidorphilippines.com
Memoirs of a Non-Geisha
Published in Mega Magazine 2006
When one thinks of a family holiday, it’s very rare that Japan comes to mind. The first reaction I got from many of my friends when told that I was off for a week with mother, father and little brother ( all 6 feet of him) to Nagoya was “What? Japan?” which was closely followed by “Japan! Ang mahal!” Yes, the land of the rising sun, Voltes V, Mazinger Z and Aphrodite A. Also, home to Nikon, Canon, Sony and the car you probably drive. I won’t even bother to include the slew of japayuki jokes I also got. But, Japan it was, and in all honesty, from the age of 5 when I first “saw” Japan via a stopover at the Narita airport, it was never far from my mind. So why Japan? One, an airport stopover doesn’t count as having been to Japan, and two, we were avoiding busy bustling Tokyo altogether to see an older more “traditional” side of this country. Our chosen base was the city of Nagoya (not a lightweight by any means in terms of being bustling) and from there we would hit the road to see sites such as Kyoto, Nara and Mt. Fuji. It’s a lot easier for me to go to a country and have no expectations, and that’s why in the past I chose to not really read up on my planned destination…years of traveling though have taught me that there is no worse disrespect you can pay your new host country than by knowing absolutely nothing about it. The plane ride over and the first night at our Nagoya Hotel had my head buried in a book, with my stomach more pleasantly engaged in the promise of sushi, tempura and unagi. As a side note, my gastronomic patriotism was dedicated to a revolving sushi bar ideally located at the train station right outside our hotel, restaurants displaying intricately put together plastic food arrangements that you could just at depending on your imagination. It was like taking turo turo to a different level, due to the language barrier, we would be escorted outside of a restaurant and be made to “point” at the dish that we wanted. Thankfully most of the eager waitresses knew enough English to say if the breaded whatsit was pork, beef or fish. There were some difficulties in asking for a glass of water and being served a cup of matcha ( green tea) instead…now I know how much truth there was in Sophia Coppola’s “Lost in Translation”.
Kyoto
Hiring a car, with a very bubbly chauffer named Kudo-san (San is like Sir, or Mr) we set off for what was Japan’s original capital, its fifth largest city, Kyoto. We were very fortunate that Kudo-san was so eager to practice his English that he acted as impromptu cultural guide and (as you will find out later) Hollywood trivia insider. Kyoto is considered by the Japanese to be one of the most visited parts of their country, both by foreigners and by locals. It proudly boasts of seventeen Unesco World Heritage Sites, was once the home of the Emperor of Japan for more than a 1000 years and was the center for Buddhist worship. A good note to first time travelers is that Kyoto is certainly NOT a see all in one day kind of trip (as I sadly learned) there are certain sites that need to be scheduled ahead of time. One example is the Kyoto Imperial Palace which was the residence of the Imperial Family until the capital was relocated in 1868. We were denied the privilege of viewing its famous Shishinden Imperial State Chamber (where enthronement ceremonies took place) as well as its grounds since it is only open to the public on a certain day of the week ( I believe a Thursday). My disappointment must have been obvious but was rapidly dropped when arrived at our first stop, the Ryoanji-temple, home to a 16th Century Zen rock garden or karesansui. Since it was late November we were greeted with the very brief 3 weeks of Autumn that turned almost every leaf in the surrounding gardens and woods gold, russet, amber, you name it. It was almost like opening a chest filled with precious jewels, the trees were luminous from a distance and every photo taken seemed to gleam in gold. The minute I stepped out of the car and into gates of what is to be translated as the Temple of the Peaceful Dragen I had fallen in love. As we walked towards the garden Kudo-san explained that this was “most famous garden” and indeed it been a source of puzzlement and contemplation due to its 15 rocks and raked gravel. Why puzzlement? Sitting, standing or hanging upside down from the verandah the challenge is to get into a position wherein you can see ALL 15 rocks at one time. To be completely honest I don’t know how this could make viewing this particularly garden peaceful at all given the er, this piece of information. Perhaps the garden was not made for OC’s or highly competitive visitors (or liars) but rather those who choose to surrender to the awareness that there is no perfect position, only a perfect personal view. Very much into “when in Rome, do as the Romans do” I gleefully took about a million photos and climbed back into the car. We were then taken to our next stop, passing by more temples which were considered small time compared to Kinkaku-ji or Golden Pavillion which Kudo-san exclaimed was “most famous temple” in all of Kyoto (hmmm we see a pattern here). If I had previously noted how fall had turned Kyoto into a landscape of rich colors, it must be said that upon viewing the pavillion (even from a distance and through the heads of what seemed a gazillion tourists) the landscape “paled” literally in comparison. The structure was three stories high almost completely covered in gold leaf. So yes, you can imagine just how dazzling it was seemingly floating on the water. Each story was built in a different style, the first in palace style, the second in samurai style and the top Zen Buddhist style. An interesting bit of trivia I learned was that it was a replica of the original from the 15th century. It was said that the first one was burnt to the ground by a man who entered the Buddhist priesthood, and, so overwhelmed was he of the Pavillion’s beauty that he felt his sense of aesthetics would be further perfected if he destroyed the very thing that caused him such enchantment. Obviously, a nut. Upon leaving the pavilion ( and adding another million photos to my collection) our driver approached us and said that Kyoto and its neighbour Nara (also once a capital and center for Zen Buddhism) were where many scenes of the movie Memoirs of A Geisha were shot. This, he explained was because most of the structures had retained their original look, at least on the outside. Geisha? I thought, could I possibly see one? Did they still exist in modern times? Hai, replied Kudo-san and if we were not too tired, he could drive us to the district of Gion, where the geisha, her younger protégé, a maiko and tea houses still done in the machiya (traditional) style were “most famous”. Apparently (and this is care of my travel book and not “Most famous-San” geisha was an old Kyoto word that meant MALE entertainers dressed as women. ( Priscilla Queen of the Desert asian style) in Tokyo and Osaka but later on transformed to mean women. In Kyoto, the proper term is really a Geiko. How to distinguish between a maiko and a geisha? A maiko, who may be about 16 years of age will dress in a long trailing obi, while a geisha who may be from 21 years old and above will have a highly ornate kimono. It was more difficult to spot a geiko, much easier to spot a maiko but, Kudo-san advised us “If you see them you cannot talk to them, just take photo” fair enough, I wouldn’t know what to say anyway.
Gion
If you could just block out the luxury cars and the other tourists in matching pants and jackets it was almost as if you had entered into a rather eerie past in Gion. One that symbolized decadence, mystery and masks. I was directed to walk up and down the smaller and darker streets which were the secret passageways the maikos and geikos used to make their way to an “appointment.” All these passageways led to the “most famous” main walkway, Hanamikoji. Again I put my expectations to rest and kept my hopes up, the district itself was worth the visit anyway. Looking up at the darkening sky, I made a mental note to recharge my batteries again for our next day trips to Nara and Mt. Fuji. And then I saw her, not a foot away but a mere 6 inches, I think it was the whiteness of her face that threw me, or the fact that I didn’t exactly know what I was looking at. Her hair, almost as tall as a pavilion on her head, her lips red as blood and her eyes quickly averting her gaze the minute she saw me lift my camera which had just gone on automatic shut off. And then she was gone, scurrying down the streets, past the amazed tourists and the more hardened locals who didn’t even glance her way. All of a sudden I cursed the sudden slowness of a digital camera. My parents who were a couple of feet away from me, didn’t hear my desperate screams to take a shot, by the time they saw her, it was too late, she had slipped past them and into the Kyoto night. “You very very lucky!” exclaimed Kudo-san as he ran to me (why the hell didn’t THIS Japanese guy have a camera) “That was not even maiko that was geiko!” he looked so happy I wanted to cry, even if I had seen her, I had no proof except him ( who I would probably never see again) and my family to say we had actually seen one. Well, that would be 5 liars instead of 1 wouldn’t it? On the way back to the hotel, I could hear my dad making arrangements for our next trip to Nara and possibly Mt. Fuji. Suddenly Kudo-san turns to me and says “I hear from car company that Brad Pitt and Angelina Jolie just arrived in Japan to promote Mr. and Mrs. Smith”! I glanced at him with interest “Tomorrow” he continued “I call company and see if they go to Nara and maybe you see them.” So, it was still not sayonara to the chance to see another “most famous” in Japan.
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