Published in What's On and Expat 2007
Iloilo
House-hopping in Iloilo
Text and photos by Katrina A. Holigores
Spatially challenged as I am, it’s always reassuring to know that when planning a trip, an organized itinerary of events awaits you at your destination, even if it’s one you’ve been to in the past. I had promised to pay a visit to Iloilo and as I had already scheduled a business trip in Cebu, a trip further down south seemed to float up with perfect timing. I scheduled a four day jaunt during the intensely hot month of April and was promised tours, good food and great company, before I even got on the plane it seemed my schedule was already chockfull of day to day activity.
There was one glitch, I had scheduled my trip on a weekend when a drug conference was slated to begin and finding a hotel was proving to be as difficult as the sun was merciless in its heat. Thankfully, after a string of misses, I was booked in two hotels. The first night I would spend at the newly opened Westown Hotel situated in the amusingly named Smallville area, and the consecutive nights would be at old reliable Days Hotel in the center of town. Smallville intrigued me, if not for the faint hope that Tom Weiling would be in its midst but because it was the “in” hotspot for bars and restaurants. I was wisely advised to book a room toward the back of the hotel rather than the front or be subject to loud music and activity throughout the night.
Lesson learned
Landing in the Iloilo airport was rather painless although the minute I stepped on the tarmac I can only blame the searing heat for impairing my judgement for what occurred within the next twenty minutes. I suppose in my rush to jump into an air-conditioned taxi and head straight to my hotel, I paid no attention to the taxi line and headed straight toward the first taxi driver who waved at me. Perhaps, ( and I will do some finger pointing again) it was the ominous and shocking sight of a SM department store on my way to the airport that blinded me to the fact that the driver had not started his meter. Again, upon arriving in Smallville which was probably at most a fifteen minute ride from the airport I was too distracted to realize that the driver had charged me by almost triple the fare! Note to self, and other travelers, be patient, line up for a taxi (if there is no one to pick you up) and always insist on the meter being used.
The hotel was pleasant and I was given a room at the back of the hotel which proved to be very quiet and I was able to nap for a couple of hours to recharge my own batteries and to prepare me for what had been laid out for me to do. First up, dinner at the home of Iloilo’s host with the most, Zaffy Ledesma. Zaffy, who also was the director for the Museo Ilolilo was someone I had the great pleasure of meeting on my very first trip to Iloilo more than six years ago. He had, during that time, proven too generous a host, spoiling me with stories of his beloved city, educating me with historical facts and stuffing my face with food so good, it made me forget all else. It’s good to know that some things never change. At his beautiful home, which seemed to be as ageless and full of life, quirks and humor as he was, other guests and I were treated to amazing fare. Zaffy’s cousin, Maridel Padilla Uygongco, served us up a storm and I believe, three exquisite crabs in coconut milk after, I finally came up for breath. During the course of the dinner, I was reminded that the next day would entail a tour of ancestral homes of Iloilo’s oldest and most illustrious families (that were not open to the public) and a return to Molo, where my great grandfather had been born. I was doubly glad that being spatially challenged I couldn’t figure out right then and there the locations of the houses but was looking forward to the adventure ahead.
Backing up and Looking Forward
The first house on the agenda was the Avancena Home located in the town of Arevalo. Zaffy picked me up bright and early and gave me a brief history of this house that was now managed by Luth Camina, a descendant of its first owner, Don Fernando Avancena. The house, originally built in 1860, retained most of its original structure and its interiors had never been painted. The gleaming wood and the well maintained furniture were a delight to see, and the overall energy of the house showed that it was well loved, even if there were no longer people who resided there as the ground floor was now used as a training center and school for caregivers. At least I thought, there were people who came in and out of the house and took care of it. On the grounds of the Avancena property, the owners had also built a small house called The Home Management Center for Mother Teresa Learning Center. This charming structure incorporated fragments from old houses with its more modern design. According to the manager it was used as a venue to train men and women in the basics of housekeeping, table setting and serving to aid them in securing domestic employment.
Second on the list was the home of the Pison family in Molo, and we were warmly greeted by Kevin Pison Piamonte, grandson of the original owner of the house. Kevin showed us the façade of the house, which he jokingly declared to be “not to his taste” as he had two wily uncles who brought it upon themselves to recreate the original façade to look like the old restored houses in Vigan, (to not very favorable effect in Kevin’s opinion). The interior of the house had retained its elegance with its dark wooden floors and butterfly motifs on the windows. What was even more interesting was a Rizal motif located on the second floor, a very patriotic touch or probably just a “nationalistic fetish” laughed Kevin. The Pison house celebrated its 100th birthday in April.
As we were already in Molo, I had to pass by the Molo Church for some photo opportunities and as a silent homage to my great grandfather ( who I never met). That visit was brief as we had to head off to Jaro for the last house on my itinerary. We met up with Estella Montinola Jaen, at her home the Rodrigo Montinola house which was built in 1927. Estela, who seemed to have the vim and vigor of a woman half her age kept us entertained with stories and photos from the past as she showed as around her home. It was obvious that she liked to keep busy and kept pointing out pieces of furniture and décor that had been with her family for many years. She even gave us two boxes of polvorn as we left even if we had taken up her time for almost two hours!
Heading home
As far as conclusions can be drawn, I have this to say, although I am no expert on human behaviour or psychology, Ilonggos in general do feel a deep connection to their province and so far, seem to be able to resist the desire to become like Manila. I have often observed in other provinces, that the goal is to compete or become at par with the country’s capital, when each and every province should build and work on what makes it unique. Iloilo as far as I’m concerned is a good example of a place that knows its identity and hopefully, through some ongoing projects in terms of culture, heritage and as Zaffy affectionately calls it “collective pride” its identity becomes known to the rest of the country. I look forward to my next trip back, to get a glimpse of the past and those who still incorporate it in their present.
SIDEBAR:
IloIlo is also a good place for fresh seafood and for sweet treats. Biscocho Haus has a wide variety of delicacies that can be taken home, the most famous of which is it’s biscocho and its butterscotch.
Museo Iloilo is a good place to get a compressed glimpse of Iloilos history, its people and its native goods.
The new spa at the Days Hotel is a definite must try and has rates that are very reasonable especially for spa goers who are used to Manila prices.
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