Batanes-Dios Mamajes

Published in Manual Magazine 2005

Dios Mamajes, Batanes

Easter break 2005, most of travel hungry Manila book months in advance to assure themselves of a well earned sojourn outside the Metropolis. So far, the promise of 24/7 partying and socializing in Boracay or the more relaxed “chill out” (literally) temperature of Baguio are the popular choices Having been to both locations in the past with frequency made me and my friends interested in something less commercial. An area less frequented, yet safe. So, if we wanted the best Easter trip, why not go straight to the top? And so to the top we went, the northernmost point in our archipelago, Batanes.

Batanes has gotten some attention in recent times. In fact, the Monday immediately following Easter Sunday, it headlined a local daily since as being eyed as a potential world heritage site. Before my trip, I did a little research, and all I got were comparisons in terms of landscape to Ireland and Scotland, without the excruciating sound of bagpipes. It also boasted of a 0% crime rate, and is certainly not the place for people to expect the amenities of a resort ( spa and 4 star and above) accommodations. It, like its landscape, is as natural as allowed to be, and so are what it has to offer. For those who are looking for something different to do, Batanes is well worth the trip at least from the months of Jan. to May due to it being the first area to be hit during typhoon season.

I have to be honest and say that if nature is not your thing then this may not be an ideal spot for you. If you want clean fresh air, if you want to cross the wide open seas, look at breathtaking views from unbelievable heights, then this a “must”. Be prepared to rough it, and it’s a good idea to be in shape as you will not fully experience Batanes’ beauty if you’re not ready to be immersed in it. Some things you should definitely bring, a camera, a windbreaker that can double as a raincoat, toiletries and extra supplies of anything you feel you cannot live without. As Batanes is not as “developed” commercially as other parts of the Philippines, sometimes buying a toothbrush is an adventure in itself. Oh, and don’t forget really comfortable hiking or rubber soled shoes.

Before I run off my list of what to do and how to get there, I ask that you remain conscientious and respectful of the simple ways of the locals (Ivatans) who are from Malay stock although some may also have descended from Taiwanese immigrants (Batanes is located closest to Formosa, Taiwan). Respect their environment and their way of life and enjoy the pleasant warmth of the people as they show you with great pride around their hometown. And you will soon learn a very useful phrase “Dios mamajes” (dyos mamahes) which means literally “God will give back to you” or colloquially used as “thank you”

I must thank Asia International Travel for making all the arrangements for us, from air transport to and from Batanes and land and water transport within Batanes and its surrounding islands. The number is 8124464 and you can contact: Marissa Araneta.

HOW TO GET THERE:
Asian Spirit flies directly to the island of Batan. Some opt to take a bus (like Autobus) to Laoag and charter a flight from Laoag to Batan.

WHERE TO STAY:
Shanedels. A house that is owned by Shane and Del(smile). It is a house converted to a hostel. No private bathrooms and no hot water, but you can purchase a portable heater from any department store to bring along. The couple is very pleasant and extremely helpful and allowed us (we were 6) the whole of the second floor and its bathroom which worked out pretty well. Call Dely 09204470737

If you want more privacy and beautiful views of the sea, you may want to check out Batanes Resort. Private cottages with their own bathrooms and hot water. The exteriors are charming as they are made from local and natural materials.

WHAT TO DO:

Depending on the no. of days you’re going to spending it would be worthwhile to check out the following places while in the Batan side:

Viewing Deck at Mahatao- A great first glimpse of the many breathtaking views as the water meets with the earth all throughout Batanes

Marlboro Country- heard time and time again as the backdrop of that famous a la “Wuthering Heights” Filipino movie. Just go see it for all its worth, and you will be thinking..my kingdom for a horse just to gallop across the plains.

Song Song Ruins- A ‘ghost town’ with ruins of stone houses left after a tsunami hit this area back in the 1950s. Try and ignore the basketball court (wish that was destroyed instead)

Uyugan Church (which was built in 1857)-For some reason reminded me of something you would have seen in Mexico.

San Jose Church at Ivana-this is the only church that was not built in the Spanish style. Offers a magnificent view of the sea as it fronts the Ivana Seaport (or Radiwan Port). Try and take a look at the original ruins at the back, which have tree roots growing out of them.

Old Loran Station-formerly a site of the US Coastguard. Aside from the decaying façade which makes good photo background material, there are wonderful views of the surrounding mountains and coastline

Fundacion Pacita du Tukon- the former residence of famed artist Pacita Abad (who was from Batanes) which has now been turned into a museum.

Fishing village at Diura which proudly boasts of a fountain or “spring of youth” (goodbye Vicki Belo) and a living cave full of crystal and limestone formations known as.. Crystal Cave.

Mt. Iraya, this is a dormant volcano which is any hikers dream come true. Whether its your first time to climb or you’ve been doing it all your life, the trail offers many rest stops where one may choose to relax as others continue on. It is recommended to start the climb very early in the morning to be able to have lunch at the peak and climb down before dark.

As you can see, this is a very brief rundown of things to do, trust me, there is much much more for the very adventurous to see. I would highly recommend a day trip to the island of Sabtang. There is adequate information available on the internet if you plan to make your next trip a Batanes one. The only downside was I wasn’t too impressed with the local cuisine but I did discover the gastronomic delights of freshly grilled “dorado” ( a non-mammalian dolphin) and their local version of “gabi” which was delicious when made into a salad. The name escapes me, but I can assure that any of the warm and uber helpful Ivatans will gladly tell you and serve it to you once you land on their beautiful shores.