Saturday, June 16, 2007

Pattaya and Rayong




Published in What's On and Expat Newspaper 2006

A Non Stop Exotic Excursion in Thailand
By Katrina A. Holigores


A sleepless outskirt with all the trimmings is probably the most apt description of my recent visit to Pattaya and Rayong in Thailand. Pattaya, which is a 2 ½ hour drive southeast of Bangkok was described by one of my travelmates as “a typical beach town” and I couldn’t agree more. A skip away from the sand and surf lay an entire row of bars, restaurants, and shopping areas where the dress code seemed dedicated to flip flops and colorfully printed shirts, skirts and in some cases shorts. Wear your hair down, up or in tight little braids, as long as you could kick back, dance and drink all night, it didn’t matter. Suffice to say that Pattaya mornings had a ghost like feel whereas the energy changed to full blast highs and colors as soon as the sun started it’s descent.

For those who are more day-oriented and would like a more family type excursion, there are still many things to do in and nearby Pattaya. Our group found ourselves first at the Sri Racha Tiger and Crocodile Zoo) where the prevalent message around the area was one of “harmony”. How so? Imagine a 5 foot sow being surrogate mother to a couple of baby tiger cubs, or, you could also peer into a glass window to view an almost full grown tiger asleep alongside a pair of golden retrievers and a pig. “Yes” the zoo seems to say, if they can do it (live and sleep peacefully together) why can’t the rest of the word do the same? The Zoo also offers performances involving the tigers and a rather nerve racking show between humans and crocodiles. If that wasn’t nerve wracking enough, the zoo’s restaurant offers exotic cuisine such as crocodile meat ( in a soup or grilled) and deep fried scorpions.

If animals and exotic cuisine are far from you ideals of a holiday, then you can take a trip down to the Nong Nooch Tropical Garden that is a sprawling tribute to Thai flora (and some fauna). Walk around this recreational park to view the colorful flowers and take a tram to the more even more picturesque gardens or segregated areas with specific types of plants. There is also a cultural show with dancing and music and a very entertaining elephant show, which is a delight for both young and old. I don’t think I’ve ever felt more intimidated watching an elephant gracefully paint a picture better than I ever could!

In terms of dining and accommodation there are plenty to choose from, but it would be best to book ahead as during the weekend and holidays many flock to Pattaya for a quick getaway. There is the Montien Hotel in Pattaya and its neighbour, the very eclectic Hard Rock Hotel. The Hard Rock Hotel is a family favorite boasting of themed rooms, a lobby showcasing a variety of music memorabilia and their infinity pool plays hotspot for their very popular and well attended foam parties.

The newly opened Mantra restaurant was our dining choice one evening and we were slightly baffled with the seemingly endless choices in their menu. Both Western and Eastern favorites were available, and it gave a new meaning to the word fusion cuisine. Their homemade four-variety bread loaf is such a favorite that some patrons actually order some to take home (us included). There is also Sunday brunch for those who actually want to wake up when the sun is still up but Mantra’s operating hours during the week start from 6pm onwards, and many flock to the bar to try some original concoctions before heading out to the beach and the side street attractions.

There are two spectacles (in every sense) that I do have to write about, and they are of two highly diversified genres that I would highly recommend them to anyone visiting Pattaya. The first being the nightly musical extravaganza held at the Tiffany’s Show in Pattaya. (Which funnily enough, doubles as a shooting range during the day). The costumes, the music, the choreography are all typical of a well planned cabaret, with the single exception that all of it’s female performers are, or better put were men. Yes, Tiffany’s proudly billets itself as “The Original Transvestite Cabaret Show” and is now celebrating it’s 30th anniversary. They also have a Miss Tiffany Universe Pageant and the winner of what is self labeled women of “the second category” goes on to represent Thailand in the Miss Queen of the Universe Pageant in the US. So far, they have taken the crown three times, and when you see the show, you will not wonder why. In fact, there was a collective giggle between me and my female companions that the entire show made us feel rather inadequately gifted as women.

The second spectacle which was viewed on a very sunny bright morning was the colossal Sanctuary of Truth monument located along the shore of Laem Ratchawet in North Pattaya. This massive structure which after 25 years has still not been completed, rises to the heaven and is completely carved out of wood. Fine details frame the faces of the various deities and symbols that are depicted in Eastern religious. It’s founder, the late Mr. Lek Wiriyaphan had the vision that this would represent the way human civilization has been achieved and nurtured through philosophical truth. If the Tiffany’s show the night before was humbling in terms of the almost physical perfection of the ex-men performers, the immense size and painstaking labor it took ( and is still taking) to finish the Sanctuary of Truth is incredibly humbling. One can picture this place as ideal for worship, reflection and illumination. Despite the noise and the activity still ongoing the whole ambiance is still one of peace and rest, and I do hope to come back when the interiors (although they look finished to me) are said to be 100% done.

Even if Pattaya still had many sights and scenes to be uncovered, we were taken for a day trip to nearby proving Rayong to get a taste of fresh fruits at the Supattra Land Fruit Orchard. For around 200 baht guests can eat as much fruit as they want within the premises ( about 20 fruit types although availability depends on the season). A tram took us around the grounds and one of my enthusiastic group mates quickly learned how to identify the different fruit trees and by the end of the tour was able to out shout our tour guide in identifying them. During the tour we stopped twice to sample freshly cut slices of durian, dragon fruit, pineapple, papaya and some never heard of fruits such as the red almost bony shelled Zalacca Walachiana (which I quite liked for it’s sweet sour taste and texture) and the green coated Spondias Etherea ( a fruit that reminded everyone of guava). Needless to say thoughts of lunch quickly disappeared as the fruits kept coming and some more fruits were purchased at the on-site fruit market before we left for lunch.

Lunch was at the very impressive Tamnanpar Forest Restaurant. The whole area was lavishly covered by forest greens and trees and surrounded by waterfalls, bridges and ponds full of swans, ducks and fish. There was a cool breeze coming in from every angle of the open restaurant as we feasted on deep fried sea bass, curries, and other Thai cuisine. It was a very welcome respite from the typical Thailand heat, and I may be speaking only for myself but the sight of the water being all around was quite invigorating and more than made up for the rather intense pace we kept at for the entire trip.

Original perceptions of Thailand being a shopping and dining mecca are certainly not dispelled by my recent trip to Pattaya and Rayong, rather, the discovery of more things to do ( outside of indulging in fashion and food) were quite a revelation. So if you decide to go and visit the country that has labeled itself “Happiness on Earth” then add these two provinces to your sightseeing list, and do give my love to Tiffany’s showgirls.


SIDEBAR CONTENT:

Interested visitors may call up the Tourism Authority of Thailand at telefax (632) 9111660 or email tat_mnl@pacific.net.ph there is also a website you can visit: tourismthailand.org

Most of the attractions above are open on a daily basis although for some, it would be best to find out ahead what time the show times are. The elephant show for example at Nong Nooch is extremely popular and crowds normally rush in to get a good seat. For the restaurants it is safe to note that if you are rather sensitive to spice, you may ( and should) ask the server to make the dishes milder, depending on your tolerance.

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